RunOut #67: John Long Finds His Wings

Explicit content warning

09/01/21 • 48 min

John Long needs no introduction—he’s climbing’s most prolific writer, Stonemaster, and a genre unto himself. He joins us to talk about his excellent new book, Icarus Syndrome, a collection of 19 essays that, in different ways, explore our strange compulsion to risk it all. After this deep literary dive, you might find yourself thinking, “You know what would be perfect right about now? A nice cup of tea.” The RunOut has got you covered! Hazel Findlay joins us from across the pond and gently guides us through the steps we must follow to make a proper cup of tea. If you’re listening on the free feed, you’ll hear us answer a question submitted by one of our Rope Guns. This excerpt came from an hour-plus-long AMA episode that was available to our Rope Guns on Patreon. For as little as $5.14 / month, you can become a Rope Gun and get access to full bonus episodes and the satisfaction in supporting your favorite climbing podcast. Show Notes Icarus Syndrome from DiAngelo Publications. Follow John Long on Instagram and Facebook. Hazel Findlay — Instagram Subscribe to Hazel and Mina’s excellent podcast: The Curious Climber Podcast Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]

Previous Episode

RunOut #66: The Art of Route Setting with Jackie Hueftle

Who owns the rock? The answer is, obvi, no one ... And yet some climbers sure seem to act as if they think they do. We dive into a discursive etiquette discussion after some Ten Sleep climbers hog up a rock climb all day long. Then, Jackie Hueftle, a legend in route setting and part of the team at Kilter, joins us to talk about the art of route setting. If you think route setting is just a matter of screwing holds onto a piece of wood, you’ll be surprised to learn how much talent and physical fitness is required to be a top route setter in the climbing world. Jackie also gives us her predictions on the Olympics, given that the route-setting team is all male. Finally, Raymon Bonner, a show listener, treats us to some original music on the “youk” (ukulele). If you’d like to submit your own idea for a Final Bit—a bit of music, a joke, fourth-wave feminist slam poetry, a surly rant—you can send in your idea to [email protected]. Show Notes Setter Closet “The History of Climbing Holds” by Jackie Hueftle for Route Setter magazine “Where are all the female route setters?” “Setting the Standard” — interviews with IFSC route setters at Gym Climber. The RunOut #65: Beating the GOAT — Check out our last episode for more about climbing in the Olympics. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]

Next Episode

RunOut #68: Chasing the Alpinist

RunOut #68: Chasing the Alpinist Marc André Leclerc was one of the most reticent and enigmatic figures in climbing—a guy who few knew much about other than what what we learned from the second-hand reports emanating out of the alpine and describing his latest solo. Even the perpetually nonplussed Alex Honnold shuddered in fear and awe upon hearing some of what Leclerc had managed to climb. On today’s podcast, we are joined by the director and filmmaker Peter Mortimer, whose new film is The Alpinist, which tells the definitive and long-awaited story of Marc André Leclerc. Peter reveals some of the behind-the-scenes details about making this film, the honor of getting to know one of the most beguiling and talented figures of our sport in recent years, and ultimately, the pain of losing him to an avalanche right as the film was supposed to be wrapped. But first, we dive into a bolting debacle on Pike’s Peak and consider whether we’re in the final throes of these debates, or if we will continue to see the invocation of the Bachar-Yerian Fallacy as a way to perpetuate climbing’s most depressing pissing match. For our final bit, Aaron Glasenapp has a total eclipse of the heart. Show Notes The Alpinist film homepage and where to get tickets. Sender Films “From Climbing Partners to Bitter Enemies: In the Trenches of the Pikes Peak Bolt War” by Corey Buhay for Climbing.com Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance survey results The Case of Ten Sleep on Evening Sends. Watching the eclipse on the Grand Teton. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]