The Nugget Climbing Podcast
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Top 10 The Nugget Climbing Podcast Episodes
Goodpods has curated a list of the 10 best The Nugget Climbing Podcast episodes, ranked by the number of listens and likes each episode have garnered from our listeners. If you are listening to The Nugget Climbing Podcast for the first time, there's no better place to start than with one of these standout episodes. If you are a fan of the show, vote for your favorite The Nugget Climbing Podcast episode by adding your comments to the episode page.
EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
10/25/21 • 155 min
Tom Herbert is known as the usefulcoach, and is a leader in climbing sports nutrition. We talked about common themes in clients he works with, his philosophy of getting climbers to eat more calories to support a higher training volume, muscle protein synthesis, carbohydrate recommendations and timing, food quality, leucine supplementation, and much more.
Support the Podcast:
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Bryan Fast (he's the first one!)
Become a Patron:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-herbert-part-1
Nuggets:
5:37 – The ambiance of Boulder, CO
6:41 – Tom’s night at an outdoor club
8:39 – The ClimbSci podcast (Tom’s old podcast project)
10:23 – How Tom’s nutrition approach has changed since the ClimbSci podcast days, and seeking critique on Reddit
12:30 – How I connected with Tom via Hazel Findlay, and my goal for this conversation
15:04 – Who is Tom Herbert (@usefulcoach), and getting climbers to eat more to get more out of life
19:45 – Common themes in the clients Tom works with
22:56 – How climbers tend to eat the least amount of food they can get away with, and the weight of food and water
27:36 – Book recommendations are not real life, and Tom’s experiment with a cycling diet of very high carb
30:56 – Michael Phelps, and Tom’s central message of eating more so we can do more training
38:34 – Weight vs. lean mass and body composition
44:53 – Gaining lean body mass while training
47:45 – Progress in your training plan as a prime metric
50:53 – My experience with being stronger and lean but “fluffy around the middle”, Tom’s experience working with physique athletes, and breaking down the ideals we have in our heads as climbers
55:47 – The disconnect between looking badass and being badass, and “we tend to want to look like we climb harder than we actually climb.”
58:35 – “Is this everything I can do with my body?”, “Am I doing everything I can do to be healthy?”, and excepting our bodies
1:01:33 – Fat loss is not a linear process
1:02:24 – Aidan Roberts’ DEXA scan, and the cost of dieting
1:06:34 – Accounting for different bodies looking different at the same body fat percentage, and the selection bias of naturally lean people in pro climbing
1:10:42 – Tracking absolute strength, and focusing on improving the quality and the volume of your training over time
1:14:57 – Staying the same weight at higher calories, and reaching a new homeostasis if you do increase weight
1:17:44 – My experience with gaining weight, finding a new homeostasis, and getting stronger than ever before
1:20:20 – Energy availability, and how many calories Tom has his athletes eat on a rest day and training day (using me as an example)
1:29:17 – Protein, muscle-protein synthesis, and eating protein 4-5 times per day
1:37:57 – Tom’s thoughts on my daily protein intake
1:40:29 – Waving carb amounts, and Tom’s recommendations for me for daily carbs
1:44:21 – Saturating the climbing/training session with glucose, and the benefits of a low carb dinner
1:51:28 – Tom’s thoughts on carb backloading
1:57:08 – Two questions about carbs, and the main 2 reasons why Tom likes to wave carb amounts
2:04:20 – Summary of Tom’s carb strategy, and thoughts on skipping breakfast
2:06:28 – Food quality
2:08:12 – Patron question from Tyler: Thoughts on protein powders and artificial flavoring?
2:13:19 – Why Tom doesn’t like BCAA’s
2:15:51 – More on food quality and nutrient density
2:20:49 – Seed oils
2:22:19 – Tom’s stance on meat and animal products
2:24:34 – Beans, legumes, and anti-nutrients
2:27:06 – Eye Movement Desensitization and Reprocessing (EMDR)
2:31:34 – Gratitude
2 Listeners
EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
10/18/21 • 163 min
Craig DeMartino is a rock climber, motivational speaker, and teacher. His life changed in 2002 when he took a 100-foot ground fall. We talked about Craig’s accident and recovery, the decision to amputate his leg, climbing harder than ever after the accident, doing El Cap in a day, dealing with chronic pain, teaching adaptive climbing, and embracing a new normal.
Support the Podcast:
Become a Patron:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/craig-demartino
Nuggets:
3:28 – El Cap, Craig’s son, and owning what you like
6:09 – His kids catching the climbing bug, and watching sports from the sidelines
8:12 – Adaptive sports, ball sports, and exploring sports outside the box
9:30 – Bouldering with a prosthetic leg
11:30 – Craig’s recent broken foot
15:23 – Trauma, avoiding getting hurt gain, and the hardware in his foot
17:00 – Being in Estes, relistening to EP 11 of the Enormocast, and sitting down in person
20:30 – Craig’s accident
36:05 – Waking up in the hospital, moving to an assisted living home, and eventually returning home
42:52 – The human body is amazing
43:51 – “Fuck it. I’m gonna cut my leg off and see what happens.” -Craig DeMartino
54:40 – “Who am I in this new form?”
56:04 – The barking dog, and the human barometer
58:42 – Pain and visualization
1:02:05 – Being honest about the ups and downs, and moving away from the accident
1:05:03 – New identities, and Hugh Herr
1:06:00 – “I would never change it”, and finding purpose in teaching adaptive sports
1:11:06 – Craig’s life before the accident, helping people now, and inclusivity
1:15:22 – Being a climber first, and the first all-adaptive ascent of El Cap
1:16:40 – Helping trauma patients find flow state through climbing
1:19:56 – Working through triggers and PTSD
1:22:56 – Craig’s recovery status
1:24:55 – How to hack the perspective without the injury, and how Will’s (Craig’s son’s) coach Mikey influenced him
1:29:15 – Question from Chris Kalous: “Why do you swear so much, Craig?”
1:31:54 – Patron question from Tyler: What made your story so captivating when you shared it on the Enormocast?
1:35:35 – Talking with Steve and remembering the accident, and going back to ‘White Man’
1:38:52 – Rannveig’s story, self-blame, and moving forward
1:41:48 – Patron question from Graham: How can people in the helping professions provide better opportunities for empowerment for people with disabilities?
1:47:23 – Patron question from Levi: How could we go about making a centralized group for adaptive climbers?
1:51:07 – How to connect with Craig
1:52:00 – Patron question from Andrew: Have you tried custom prosthetics for a specific move or route?
1:55:54 – Craig’s quiver of legs, and our amazing feet
1:58:24 – Patron question from Eli: What have been some of the hardest lessons, and best and encouraging ones since your fall?
2:00:40 – “When you get up there, don’t take no for an answer.” - HK
2:01:56 – Rock climbing is hard, and explaining rock climbing to your Grandma
2:04:04 – Patron question from Eli: What advice might you have for other climbers with kids?
2:09:09 – Most meaningful climbs since the injury, speed climbing El Cap with Hans Florine, and sport climbing with Cindy (Craig’s wife)
2:16:30 – Climbing his hardest after the accident
2:19:18 – Sending ‘Dirty Smelly Hippie’, soft grades, and feeling confident at 12d
2:23:16 – The steep style of the Red, climbing with one leg, and Tommy Caldwell as the most famous amputee
2:26:55 – Patron question from Ken Klein: Moving to Puerto Rico, what will you miss most about the Fort Collins scene? How has it evolved in your time there?
2:28:53 – Continuing the work in Puerto Rico, and chasing shorts weather
2:32:54 – Why Craig hates pants
2:34:44 – What Craig hopes to still accomplish in his climbing
2:36:48 – How the experience of climbing scales
2:37:58 – Grateful for opportunities
2:39:00 – We are all struggling with something
2:41:38 – Life is fluid
1 Listener
EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
08/10/20 • 83 min
Connor Herson is the kid who free climbed ‘The Nose’ at fifteen years old. What most people don’t know is that he is also an incredible sport climber. We talked about his sport climbing goal at age fourteen, his path to free climbing ‘The Nose’, big wall tactics, gear recommendations, headpointing, training power during COVID, recent sends, and future goals on El Cap.
Support on Patreon:
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/conner-herson
Nuggets:
2:00 – Breakfast, caffeine, and sleep
3:26 – Connor’s goal at age 14
8:23 – Jailhouse, kneebar pads, the evolution of climbing, and 5.14d
12:53 – Trying ‘Triple Direct’
14:27 – Outgrowing beta on the ‘Changing Corners’ pitch
15:45 – Breakdown of the ‘Triple Direct’ linkup
17:24 – Three-day ascents
19:51 – Warming up for 5.14 straight out of bed and kneebaring the ‘Changing Corners’
22:08 – The path to freeing ‘The Nose’
30:34 – Making up PE class
33:25 – Two nudges from Tommy
38:09 – “If it’s a free route on El Cap it’s a goal.”, building a base of free routes, and thoughts on ‘The Dawn Wall’
40:21 – ‘Broken Arrow’, moderates to build a base, and headpointing tactics
47:55 – Bad landings, safety margins, and sewing up the first 25’ of ‘Broken Arrow’
49:37 – Offset cams, and cams vs. nuts
51:23 – ‘The Green Mile’
54:12 – Power training during shelter-in-place, ‘Throwin’ the Houlihan’, and ‘Surf Safari’
59:48 – Patron Question: Why are so few young climbers pulled towards trad and big walls?
1:05:06 – Patron Question: Connor’s go-to climbing shoes?
1:06:53 – Patron Question: Strategies for dealing with discomfort on big walls? (water, harness, shoes)
1:12:24 – Patron Question: Continue being an “all-rounder” vs. becoming more specialized?
1:14:16 – Jailhouse for training, and “if it’s training it can be contrived.”
1:15:52 – Gratitude
1:17:31 – Connor’s recent two-week trip, and sharing the driving
1:18:53 – Connor’s upcoming trip and goals
EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
06/08/20 • 121 min
Ethan Pringle is one of the best all-around rock climbers in the world. We talked about practice vs. training, lessons learned from 50 days projecting ‘The Nest’, taking care of his dad and his experience with chronic grief, the gift of heartbreak, discovering a new depth of love, projecting highballs, and the coolest rock climbing move he has ever done.
Support on Patreon:
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ethan-pringle
Nuggets:
2:22 – The Pistol Squat challenge
5:58 – Practice vs training, and feeling plateaued in strength
9:18 – Improving strategy for projecting, getting really good at making climbs easier, and admiring climbers who try 100% every time they pull on the wall
12:24 – Wanting to flow vs. trying as hard as possible, learning to climb efficiently, and the game of sport climbing
16:14 – 50 days on ‘The Nest’
24:38 – Psychological vs. physical limitations on The Nest, holding on to belief, and the decision to send
27:23 – Ethan’s main takeaway from ‘The Nest’: “Crappy days are totally fine and totally normal.”
29:15 – Trying different beta, lightbulb moments, ‘El Bon Combat’, and “master beta”
33:59 – ‘Kintsugi’, the ninja-toe-catch, and the coolest rock climbing move Ethan has ever done
38:47 – His dad’s stroke, finding him on the floor, life’s pivotal moments, caregiving, and Michael Peña
49:39 – Lessons from grief, heartbreak as a gift, and a new depth of love
59:30 – Compassion, acceptance, growth
1:01:05 – Self-compassion, the ‘La Reina Mora’ story, and the debilitating combo of emotional baggage and bad beta
1:07:47 – Overextending and creating boundaries
1:13:15 – Knowing yourself and communicating boundaries
1:16:30 – Why the word “depression” doesn’t really resonate with Ethan, his own brand of internal darkness, and becoming more at peace with himself
1:21:14 – Seeing a grief counselor and why Ethan is a proponent of therapy
1:23:29 – 10-minute sits, mindfulness meditation, and Ethan’s experience and takeaways from a 10-day vipassana course
1:35:35 – Doing the second ascent of Jason Kehl’s ‘Evilution’, and why highball bouldering is such an amazing type of climbing
1:39:47 – Ethan’s highball projects in Yosemite
1:42:18 – Ethan’s approach to highballs and the effect of pulling the rope
1:44:27 – The “Brown Point”
1:46:26 – Plans for Yosemite in the Fall
1:47:12 – Dreams of finding all-natural 5.14+ or 5.15 projects
1:51:50 – Ethan’s dream van
1:54:55 – Gratitude
1:56:09 – Hugs
1:56:37 – Ethan’s Instagram and plans for a new website
1:57:32 – The gift of vulnerability, plans for a round 2, and reversing interview roles
EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
09/15/24 • 81 min
Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the power of climbing with a girl gang, hidden costs of making a film, trash can showers, pad-less sends, imposter syndrome, advice for aspiring filmmakers, and more.
Watch Girls Gone Hueco:
KAYA:
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.
Shoutout to KAYA for supporting Girls Gone Hueco!
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/girls-gone-hueco
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:38) – Midori’s background
(00:09:08) – Long’s background
(00:13:26) – What Long learned making Girls Gone Hueco
(00:15:41) – What surprised Midori about the experience
(00:17:32) – Why Midori wanted to make the film
(00:20:30) – Forming the girl gang
(00:24:36) – How Long got involved with this film
(00:28:36) – Making the film
(00:37:48) – What they wish they had known
(00:40:10) – Hidden costs of making a film
(00:48:08) – Carving out the time to make a film
(00:50:57) – Trash can shower
(00:55:39) – Amanda’s pad-less send
(01:00:36) – Will there be a Girls Gone Hueco 2?
(01:01:35) – Takeaways
(01:06:11) – Where to watch the film
(01:06:45) – Advice for aspiring filmmakers
(01:10:03) – Imposter syndrome
(01:15:15) – Don’t be afraid to try
(01:16:45) – V11 in legit
(01:18:03) – Shoutout to Julie Ellison
(01:20:45) – Congratulations
EP 87: Alita Contreras — Learning Languages, Coaching Women to Climb Powerfully, and Translating Training Books
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
09/20/21 • 105 min
Alejandra (Alita) Contreras is a half Colombian half Venezualan professional rock climber, coach, and translator. We talked about the economic situation in Venezuela and why she moved to Colombia six years ago, about living in Germany and translating training books by Udo Neumann, about coaching women, our global climbing family, and her current 5.14a project.
Support the Podcast:
Become a Patron:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alita-contreras
Nuggets:
1:50 – Alegria
3:52 – Alita vs. Alejandra
6:40 – The situation in Venezuela, and why Alita emigrated to Columbia
14:21 – Studying languages, Alita’s father, singing opera, and becoming interested in Germany
18:48 – Separating languages in your head
21:13 – Tips for learning a new language
25:36 – Thinking differently, and having different personalities in different languages
28:13 – Bad milk
29:42 – The many things Alita does for work, and coaching a women’s group
34:05 – Patterns Alita notices in working with women climbers, and what she works on with her group
39:23 – Empowering girls and educating guys
41:46 – Researching a new project to help women with cancer regain physical and emotional health through climbing
45:55 – Translating Udo Neuman’s books into Spanish
48:30 – Parallels with translating and the podcast, and the big takeaways from Udo’s books
54:51 – In Search of Greatness (documentary), going with the current of motivation, and being honest with yourself
59:11 – The powerful 13a that Alita is most proud of (even though she has climbed 13d)
1:02:29 – My season of seeking out obscure 12d’s at Smith, and the benefit of climbing easier routes outside of your best style
1:05:16 – Alita’s 14a project
1:08:59 – Macheta climbing area, and a description of the 14a
1:10:45 – Alita’s video of ‘Los Tenahos Contratican’, and similarities to Hueco
1:11:33 – Dreams of climbing at the Red, and climbing in Europe
1:12:53 – Alita’s favorite climbing destinations
1:15:00 – Living and climbing near the equator, and tactics for projecting when you don’t have seasons
1:19:10 – How Alita thinks about yearly goals
1:21:12 – Continuing to improve, and enjoying the process
1:26:07 – Living in Canada, competing in one competition, and Alita’s hype-up song
1:31:33 – Patron question from Eli: What is the local climbing like in your area? Similarities and differences in climbing cultures around the world?
1:36:18 – Gratitude for Alegria (her dog)
1:39:46 – A new opportunity
1:37:25 – Aspirations to be a pro-climber?
1:39:01 – Vulnerability and the gift of sharing
1:40:10 – Gratitude, and meaningful connections
EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
10/04/21 • 63 min
In Q&A 3, I tackle patron questions about my two most successful winters of training on my home wall back in Bend, how my training has evolved and what it looks like now, how to maintain strength while living on the road and climbing full-time, advice for nomadic living, life mottos, try-hard mindset, hair dye, M&Ms, singalong jams, and much more.
Become a Patron:
One-On-One Consultations:
thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-3
Nuggets:
0:00 – Q&A 3 overview, and info about Patreon and one-on-one consultations
5:05 – Faelan’s Question: Lessons from two winters of training on my (Steven’s) home wall, and my best week of climbing ever
16:20 – Andrew K’s Question: Have you ever visited The New or other east coast crags? What areas do you dream of visiting?
17:44 – Jimmy’s Question: How much running should someone do for sport climbing to build cardio?
20:39 – Joe’s Question: Am I limiting myself by only climbing near home in Tahoe? Which areas should I travel to in order to grow the most as a climber?
25:03 – Joe’s Question: Any advice for me as I pursue a new video project and start creating content?
28:19 – Andrew W’s Question: Why have you struggled to make gains in your training in the past? How has your training evolved? How do you train now?
35:30 – Andrew W’s Question: Tips for building and maintaining community while living on the road?
38:08 – Andrew W’s Question: Do you have a quote or motto that best describes your approach to living?
41:26 – Casey’s Question: Any advice for training/maintaining strength while living on the road?
48:42 – Clay’s Question: How do you think about the question, “How do you think about that?”
51:19 – Casey M’s Question: Did you really dye your hair blonde? Why not purple?
52:44 – Casey M’s Question: Any person totally non-climbing-related that you would love to have on the podcast?
55:52 – Casey M’s Question: Have you ever absentmindedly picked all of the M&Ms out of someone else's trail mix?
56:19 – Casey M’s Question: You are riding in the car with a friend and you are the DJ: what do you pick to sing along to?
57:23 – Casey M’s Question: What mindset do you try to channel when trying hard?
59:00 – Casey M’s Question: When will you start trying to do stunts in videos? Can we send you skateboard tricks?
EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson — Trying Hard Projects, Hangboarding Two Times Per Day, and a Career on YouTube
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
09/06/21 • 122 min
Emil Abrahamsson is an elite boulderer, route setter, and YouTuber from Sweden. We talked about goal setting and projecting his first V15 as a V9 climber, the importance of psych and inspiration, experimenting with hangboarding two times per day, how to do one-arm pullups, sharing the experience of outdoor climbing through films, and making a living through his YouTube channel.
Support the Podcast:
Become a Patron:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emil-abrahamsson
Nuggets:
3:11 – Building a van and planning a bouldering trip around Europe
6:01 – My bouldering goals, Emil’s progression, and setting goals
9:27 – Trying a V15 as a V9 climber, and how a lot of climbers stay “comfortable” at a specific level
12:53 – ‘The Big Island’
17:17 – Emil’s first day of climbing, struggling early on, and getting hooked
19:38 – Alternating difficulty and volume goals
21:32 – ‘The Queen Mother’ (Emil’s first 8B/V13 project in Stockholm), and the limiting power of expectations
29:21 – Reflecting on ‘The Queen Mother’, and prioritizing psych and motivation
32:00 – Felix
37:13 – “Swiss Recruitment”, or the Swiss style of projecting
41:00 – How Emil got into YouTubing, capturing the experience of outdoor climbing, and my impression as a viewer
44:27 – Forgetting to charge the batteries, and the stress vs. fun of filming
47:42 – Work-life balance when you love your work, and turning YouTubing into a career
49:34 – How to balance capturing footage with training or performing, and capturing the good and the bad
51:15 – Emil’s “No Hangs” hangboard video, and his caveat for training advice
56:00 – Quick overview of the “No Hang” hangboard protocol, and Emil’s theory of why his fingers got stronger
1:00:16 – We get most of our strength through climbing
1:01:41 – 4x4s and other climbing games
1:04:10 – Training your strengths, and practicing weaknesses through climbing
1:06:59 – How Emil structures his training, and embracing the stretching “pain game”
1:11:49 – Turning challenges into positives, and the benefits Emil has noticed from stretching
1:14:46 – Patron question from Florian about avoiding crimping early on in his climbing, and how Emil worked to improve his crimp strength later
1:18:34 – How Emil rewired his brain to think, “Full crimps are comfortable. I can enjoy these.”
1:19:32 – Emil’s crimp progression and current level
1:21:53 – One-arm pull-ups, 4mm crimps, front levers, and getting weaker on purpose to get better at technique
1:28:55 – Emil’s recommendations for progressing to a one-arm pullup
1:33:41 – How Emil pronounces his name, and a Patron question from Flynn about training for indoors vs. outdoors and competing in World Cups
1:41:12 – Flash training
1:43:44 – World Cup goals, and the flame of competition
1:47:34 – What is one of the weirdest/worst training experiments that you’ve tried?
1:50:24 – Favorite films, the critical eye, and the need for consistent content
1:54:48 – Recommendations for new viewers
1:56:35 – Emil’s dream collaboration
1:58:17 – Gratitude
2:01:03 – Finishing the van, and plans for Switzerland and Italy
EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
07/20/20 • 110 min
Audrey Sniezek is a software engineer for Microsoft and a former professional climber. We talked about her beginnings in both computer science and climbing, becoming a morning person, her 4 a.m. warmup routine, starting a climbing gym near the Red River Gorge, coaching in China, self-talk for confidence, and her most recent 5.14a.
Support on Patreon:
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/audrey-sniezek
Nuggets:
1:58 – Peanut butter sandwiches, being a finisher of things, the lunch crux, and dry salads
5:48 – Timex computers, studying computer science, and turning down Microsoft
10:22 – Temporary job with Microsoft, REI, and “is there any climbing in Washington?”
12:43 – Bigger and scarier, improving by climbing a lot, lead climbing and pushing personal boundaries
14:21 – Flexibility with work, squeezing in climbing, and “I’m only as transparent as I need to be.”
16:03 – Alpine style sport climbing, and becoming a morning person
17:55 – Audrey’s morning warmup routine
20:58 – Making the most of morning sessions, swapping days, and finding a COVID pandemic buddy
23:45 – Waking up extra early to send ‘Lost Horizons’, and commuting to and from climbing
25:41 – The corporate boomerang, living in a van to climb full time, preferring to stay places longer, and Audrey’s current trifecta
28:58 – Fitness training, healthcare, why Audrey came back to a corporate job after freelancing, and building trust to achieve a better work/life balance
34:11 – A shift in company culture due to COVID
37:15 – A home in Vegas, and starting a gym in near the Red River Gorge
40:34 – Starting a computer science program at the Beattyville high school, and how the Beattyville climbing gym came to be
45:22 – Audrey’s vision for the gym, old-school setting, and watching the kids climb
47:28 – William’s stroke
49:37 – How Audrey uses the Beattyville gym and how she balances climbing and training in general
51:50 – Living in China and accidentally becoming a climbing coach
56:53 – Splitting up training and coaching, the language barrier, a teary-eyed farewell, and Audrey’s training legacy
1:00:20 – Audrey’s training session breakdown, Tabata style warmup, technique drills, going back to fundamentals, and training power on easy climbs
1:03:56 – Why Audrey doesn’t do much Moonboarding or hangboarding
1:05:39 – Recent finger injury, slowly getting back into the swing, and missing the “try hard”
1:08:02 – What factors help Audrey “bring it”
1:08:40 – ‘The Sickness’
1:13:48 – ‘Black Plague’, linkups, milking climbs for all they’re worth, and new projects
1:16:39 – Four-year gap between 5.14s, competing in the world cups, and a hamstring injury
1:18:51 – How Audrey sent ‘The Sickness’ without any specific prep
1:20:50 – Trying a 5.14 at Mt. Potosi
1:23:39 – Goals and dreams
1:26:05 – ‘Dr. Evil’, funky beta, and a surprise send
1:31:03 – “The only thing stopping me is me.”
1:33:32 – 5.14 (or 5.15) in her 50s, “am I a machine”, and trying things sooner rather than later
1:34:32 – How’s Audrey training changed in her 40s, her own fitness and training resources
1:36:57 – What Audrey wishes she had known in her 20’s, confidence, and “I belong here”
1:39:45 – Self-talk, the piece of paper, and “I’m capable.”
1:41:43 – Low confidence, building yourself up, and reminding yourself that you create your results
1:42:41 – Gratitude, heartbreak, and community
1:45:06 – The victory cone
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FAQ
How many episodes does The Nugget Climbing Podcast have?
The Nugget Climbing Podcast currently has 332 episodes available.
What topics does The Nugget Climbing Podcast cover?
The podcast is about Health & Fitness, Training, Climbing, Gold, American, The, Fitness, Podcasts, Self-Improvement, Education, Talk and Project.
What is the most popular episode on The Nugget Climbing Podcast?
The episode title 'EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing' is the most popular.
What is the average episode length on The Nugget Climbing Podcast?
The average episode length on The Nugget Climbing Podcast is 99 minutes.
How often are episodes of The Nugget Climbing Podcast released?
Episodes of The Nugget Climbing Podcast are typically released every 6 days, 5 hours.
When was the first episode of The Nugget Climbing Podcast?
The first episode of The Nugget Climbing Podcast was released on Feb 1, 2020.
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