EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos
Explicit content warning
10/04/21 • 63 min
In Q&A 3, I tackle patron questions about my two most successful winters of training on my home wall back in Bend, how my training has evolved and what it looks like now, how to maintain strength while living on the road and climbing full-time, advice for nomadic living, life mottos, try-hard mindset, hair dye, M&Ms, singalong jams, and much more.
Become a Patron:
One-On-One Consultations:
thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-3
Nuggets:
0:00 – Q&A 3 overview, and info about Patreon and one-on-one consultations
5:05 – Faelan’s Question: Lessons from two winters of training on my (Steven’s) home wall, and my best week of climbing ever
16:20 – Andrew K’s Question: Have you ever visited The New or other east coast crags? What areas do you dream of visiting?
17:44 – Jimmy’s Question: How much running should someone do for sport climbing to build cardio?
20:39 – Joe’s Question: Am I limiting myself by only climbing near home in Tahoe? Which areas should I travel to in order to grow the most as a climber?
25:03 – Joe’s Question: Any advice for me as I pursue a new video project and start creating content?
28:19 – Andrew W’s Question: Why have you struggled to make gains in your training in the past? How has your training evolved? How do you train now?
35:30 – Andrew W’s Question: Tips for building and maintaining community while living on the road?
38:08 – Andrew W’s Question: Do you have a quote or motto that best describes your approach to living?
41:26 – Casey’s Question: Any advice for training/maintaining strength while living on the road?
48:42 – Clay’s Question: How do you think about the question, “How do you think about that?”
51:19 – Casey M’s Question: Did you really dye your hair blonde? Why not purple?
52:44 – Casey M’s Question: Any person totally non-climbing-related that you would love to have on the podcast?
55:52 – Casey M’s Question: Have you ever absentmindedly picked all of the M&Ms out of someone else's trail mix?
56:19 – Casey M’s Question: You are riding in the car with a friend and you are the DJ: what do you pick to sing along to?
57:23 – Casey M’s Question: What mindset do you try to channel when trying hard?
59:00 – Casey M’s Question: When will you start trying to do stunts in videos? Can we send you skateboard tricks?
In Q&A 3, I tackle patron questions about my two most successful winters of training on my home wall back in Bend, how my training has evolved and what it looks like now, how to maintain strength while living on the road and climbing full-time, advice for nomadic living, life mottos, try-hard mindset, hair dye, M&Ms, singalong jams, and much more.
Become a Patron:
One-On-One Consultations:
thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-3
Nuggets:
0:00 – Q&A 3 overview, and info about Patreon and one-on-one consultations
5:05 – Faelan’s Question: Lessons from two winters of training on my (Steven’s) home wall, and my best week of climbing ever
16:20 – Andrew K’s Question: Have you ever visited The New or other east coast crags? What areas do you dream of visiting?
17:44 – Jimmy’s Question: How much running should someone do for sport climbing to build cardio?
20:39 – Joe’s Question: Am I limiting myself by only climbing near home in Tahoe? Which areas should I travel to in order to grow the most as a climber?
25:03 – Joe’s Question: Any advice for me as I pursue a new video project and start creating content?
28:19 – Andrew W’s Question: Why have you struggled to make gains in your training in the past? How has your training evolved? How do you train now?
35:30 – Andrew W’s Question: Tips for building and maintaining community while living on the road?
38:08 – Andrew W’s Question: Do you have a quote or motto that best describes your approach to living?
41:26 – Casey’s Question: Any advice for training/maintaining strength while living on the road?
48:42 – Clay’s Question: How do you think about the question, “How do you think about that?”
51:19 – Casey M’s Question: Did you really dye your hair blonde? Why not purple?
52:44 – Casey M’s Question: Any person totally non-climbing-related that you would love to have on the podcast?
55:52 – Casey M’s Question: Have you ever absentmindedly picked all of the M&Ms out of someone else's trail mix?
56:19 – Casey M’s Question: You are riding in the car with a friend and you are the DJ: what do you pick to sing along to?
57:23 – Casey M’s Question: What mindset do you try to channel when trying hard?
59:00 – Casey M’s Question: When will you start trying to do stunts in videos? Can we send you skateboard tricks?
Previous Episode
Follow-Up: Allison Vest — ‘Throwin’ the Houlian’, Mono Training, and the Periodic Table of Elements (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Allison Vest. We talked about her sends of ‘Throwin’ the Houlihan’ and ‘Rodeo Free Europe’ (both 5.14a) at the Wild Iris, how she trained her fingers for the savage monos, stories and laughs from her road trip with Alex Johnson, rapping, reciting the Periodic Table of Elements in under 45 seconds, music collaborations, and much more.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 53:16.
Next Episode
EP 90: Josh Wharton — Onsight Tips and Tricks, Training to Flash El Capitan, and Risk Assessment as a Parent
Josh Wharton is one of the most badass climbers you’ve never heard of. He does it all at an elite level. We talked about tips for hard flashing and onsighting, how alpine climbing relates to rock climbing, training to flash El Cap, the value of taking risks in life, being a climbing parent, climbing in Pakistan, how to find an adventure without flying overseas, and the benefits of stiff shoes.
Support the Podcast:
Become a Patron:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-wharton
Nuggets:
3:55 – Josh’s age, and physical vs. technical/tactical progression
5:40 – How Josh manages to be such a good all-arounder and still climb 5.14
9:13 – Trying to do every route in the Black Canyon and Rifle
11:42 – Uber loc(al)s, and using obscure easy routes to prepare for big mountains
13:02 – Josh’s flash and onsight ability, tips and tricks, and climbing with a lot of confidence
17:01 – How to get better at onsighting and flashing
18:49 – Why Josh made the decision to stop redpointing routes he knows he can do
20:11 – Overlapping flashing or onsighting
22:30 – Josh’s go-to schedule for combining onsighting with projecting on a trip
24:22 – How being a parent has changes Josh’s climbing priorities, rock climbing and alpine climbing as different sports, and the rewards of alpine climbing
30:53 – “Everything is training, and nothing is training”, and alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies
35:43 – Having dinner with Barry Blanchard
37:03 – A message from Jonah, and what Josh has learned from each type of climbing
40:26 – Variety as a source of motivation
42:20 – A glimpse into Josh’s experience climbing Wheeler Peak
48:04 – Patron question from Timothy: Why did Josh climb in the Black Canyon so much? What routes had the biggest impact on him?
54:03 – Latok and Ogar
56:21 – The cost of a trip to Pakistan
59:48 – What a trip to Pakistan looks like, and “Expectations often define an experience.”
1:01:17 – More about Latok
1:03:50 – How Josh would prepare for another attempt on Latok
1:09:02 – Sport dry tooling, and winning the Ouray Ice Fest three years in a row
1:12:48 – Learned about training from dry tooling competitions
1:16:27 – The evolution of Josh’s training, and principles of training
1:22:05 – The secret sauce
1:25:02 – Josh’s training staples, and working with Lattice
1:29:54 – Getting away from having to perform well every time you go climbing
1:32:24 – Prioritizing climbing vs. training
1:33:24 – Josh’s 60-degree campus board (joke), and how the Lattice training is going
1:37:04 – Josh’s goal for 2021 (try to flash Freerider)
1:39:55 – How Josh set the boulder problem on Freerider to spec
1:41:37 – Preparing for the Monster Offwidth
1:43:50 – Yuji’s article about trying to onsight El Cap
1:45:14 – Patron questions from Henry: How much has parenthood reduced your tolerance for risk?
1:50:55 – Hera, and Josh’s parallel universe in the NBA
1:52:40 – Using climbing as a tool for travel, and more about climbing as a parent
1:55:26 – Josh’s early climbing with his dad
1:57:16 – Patron question from Garret: Any CO areas that don’t get the respect they deserve?
1:59:12 – Patron question from Randall: Favorite zone or route in Montana? Other favorites in the States?
2:02:10 – Patron question from Benjamin: Thoughts on the new Scarpa Boostic?
2:05:35 – Shoe stiffness for Rifle, and analyzing the soft shoe trend
2:07:42 – Shoe sizes, and Josh’s shoe plan for Freerider
2:10:03 – Patron question from Benjamin: If Josh could only climb in one discipline for the rest of his life, what would he choose?
2:10:41 – What’s next for Josh?
2:14:55 – Gratitude
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