EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong
Explicit content warning
09/15/24 • 81 min
Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the power of climbing with a girl gang, hidden costs of making a film, trash can showers, pad-less sends, imposter syndrome, advice for aspiring filmmakers, and more.
Watch Girls Gone Hueco:
KAYA:
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.
Shoutout to KAYA for supporting Girls Gone Hueco!
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/girls-gone-hueco
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:38) – Midori’s background
(00:09:08) – Long’s background
(00:13:26) – What Long learned making Girls Gone Hueco
(00:15:41) – What surprised Midori about the experience
(00:17:32) – Why Midori wanted to make the film
(00:20:30) – Forming the girl gang
(00:24:36) – How Long got involved with this film
(00:28:36) – Making the film
(00:37:48) – What they wish they had known
(00:40:10) – Hidden costs of making a film
(00:48:08) – Carving out the time to make a film
(00:50:57) – Trash can shower
(00:55:39) – Amanda’s pad-less send
(01:00:36) – Will there be a Girls Gone Hueco 2?
(01:01:35) – Takeaways
(01:06:11) – Where to watch the film
(01:06:45) – Advice for aspiring filmmakers
(01:10:03) – Imposter syndrome
(01:15:15) – Don’t be afraid to try
(01:16:45) – V11 in legit
(01:18:03) – Shoutout to Julie Ellison
(01:20:45) – Congratulations
Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the power of climbing with a girl gang, hidden costs of making a film, trash can showers, pad-less sends, imposter syndrome, advice for aspiring filmmakers, and more.
Watch Girls Gone Hueco:
KAYA:
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.
Shoutout to KAYA for supporting Girls Gone Hueco!
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/girls-gone-hueco
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:38) – Midori’s background
(00:09:08) – Long’s background
(00:13:26) – What Long learned making Girls Gone Hueco
(00:15:41) – What surprised Midori about the experience
(00:17:32) – Why Midori wanted to make the film
(00:20:30) – Forming the girl gang
(00:24:36) – How Long got involved with this film
(00:28:36) – Making the film
(00:37:48) – What they wish they had known
(00:40:10) – Hidden costs of making a film
(00:48:08) – Carving out the time to make a film
(00:50:57) – Trash can shower
(00:55:39) – Amanda’s pad-less send
(01:00:36) – Will there be a Girls Gone Hueco 2?
(01:01:35) – Takeaways
(01:06:11) – Where to watch the film
(01:06:45) – Advice for aspiring filmmakers
(01:10:03) – Imposter syndrome
(01:15:15) – Don’t be afraid to try
(01:16:45) – V11 in legit
(01:18:03) – Shoutout to Julie Ellison
(01:20:45) – Congratulations
Previous Episode
EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training
Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut Video
Become a Patron:
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard design.
Crimpd:
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
Rhino Skin Solutions:
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Revival Climbing Coalition:
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Chalk Cartel:
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal
(00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking
(00:11:28) – Limiting factors
(00:12:15) – The Sport Audit
(00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting
(00:19:19) – Specializing
(00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength
(00:21:18) – More on specialization
(00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises
(00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics
(00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals
(00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training
(00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program
(00:45:56) – Yves’ edge lifting protocols
(00:53:35) – When to progress weight
(00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test
(00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule
(00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)
(01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains
(01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong
(01:05:29) – Repeaters
(01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program
(01:10:48) – My takeaways so far
(01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training
(01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder
(01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency
(01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan
(01:35:12) – More about repeaters
(01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season
(01:48:05) – Yves’ recent grip comp & climbing goals
(01:55:22) – Yves’ gap analysis for comps
(01:57:15) – Planning & process goals
(01:59:05) – Yves’ job as a special effects artist
(02:01:06) – Yves’ YouTube channel
(02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports
(02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip
(02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons
Next Episode
EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4, and the rule of 10. We also discuss why we both lift, why climbers should train differently than weight lifters, programming ideas, common mistakes, and more.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Crimpd:
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
BetterHelp:
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter
Become a Patron:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-3
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – The NUG
(00:01:21) – Why Jesse lifts weights
(00:04:43) – Why I lift weights
(00:06:19) – The safety of weightlifting
(00:07:03) – Low-hanging fruit
(00:08:06) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Learn the basics (the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, and a basic understanding of anatomy)
(00:12:36) – How I use RPE, & a big mistake I made early on in my lifting
(00:13:16) – Other forms of RPE
(00:16:11) – A study on reps in reserve (RIR) lifting
(00:16:50) – A basic understanding of anatomy (ExRx.net)
(00:18:20) – Steven’s Tip #1: Train like an athlete in another sport, not like a weight lifter
(00:18:54) – The Big 4 (push, pull, hinge, squat), & an example program
(00:21:56) – The 10 Rep Rule
(00:25:13) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Learn how to modify your training
(00:35:47) – How to progress primary & accessory exercises
(00:37:26) – Why you should start with a compound exercise
(00:38:25) – Steven’s Tip #2: It’s ok to focus on the bare essentials
(00:40:43) – Way too much pulling training
(00:41:30) – Step #1 for new lifters
(00:44:07) – Drew Ruana bench press example
(00:45:42) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Load is more important to pay attention to than form
(00:47:30) – Steven’s Tip #3: Get specific strategically, and only after you build a base
(00:49:42) – Jesse’s Tip #4: You may need to reduce your climbing volume to adapt to your weight training
(00:55:52) – Bonus Tip: Learn about hardstyle training
(00:58:27) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Doing either too much or too little
(01:01:14) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Going ham
(01:01:14) – Bonus Pitfall: Not taking advantage of weight lifting when you’re young
(01:07:12) – You don’t have to go to level ten
(01:08:17) – Overall training load
(01:09:09) – A little bit is still beneficial
(01:11:04) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not going heavy enough
(01:15:56) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too specific, too special, or too fancy
(01:18:42) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not eating enough protein
(01:22:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not learning how to use autoregulation in some fashion
(01:26:02) – Bonus Pitfall: Forcing it
(01:27:57) – Nurturing your practice with weight training
(01:29:26) – Avoid boot camp training
(01:31:46) – Wrap up
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