
Episode #44 - How to Train More Effectively and Climb Harder!
02/06/20 • 78 min
4 Tips to Improve the Quality of Your Training and Accelerate Progress Toward Your Goals!
It's been said that the definition of insanity is doing the same thing expecting to get different results. Progress demands change. Doing hard things demands great change. Uncommon success demands uncommon self-awareness, discipline, and effort.
This podcast presents four ways to refine, re-invent, or perhaps completely overhaul your training to get better results in the pursuit of your goals.
RUNDOWN
8:50 - Develop a detailed and compelling game plan for 2020. On a calendar, block in possible road trips, competitions, and other major life events. Consider what additional shorter trips (weekends and holidays) you can schedule. Now, think about developing a training plan to be maximally effective for preparing you for each trip. Don't forget to include a 3 to 7 days "training taper" before significant trips.
11:45 - Refine, re-invent, or overhaul your training! Do you do the same familiar training program day after day? Are you now training in the same basic ways you did one year ago? If so, it's time for a change! Listen closely for ideas how....and beware of the "shiny object"!
25:55 - Begin using Auto-Regulation before every serious climbing-specific workout. This is a big-time tip! Pretty much all elite athletes use auto-regulation, and so should you! In this section, I describe 4 "stages" of recovery, and how you can determine your stage of climbing-specific recovery on any given workout day. Listen closely, and develop your own personalized progressive warm-up to accurately auto-regulate all of your serious climbing workouts.
57:40 - Add a new element to your training! Something you don’t ever do...or do infrequently. It must be climbing-specific and it must make sense to do...in terms of addressing a physical or technical weakness. View this new thing as a wild card—something that you might be apprehensive or scared to do. Sometimes in climbing, the thing you fear or avoid is exactly what you NEED to do to open the door to another level of performance.
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST!
- Visit PhysiVantage.com to learn about the first complete line of nutritional products designed by climbers, for climbers. PhysiVantage products are research-based...and they work! Get a physical advantage, beginning today! Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15
- Want to learn more about training? Check out the 3rd edition of the international best-seller Training for Climbing!
- Please SHARE this podcast with a friend, and write a REVIEW in iTunes. Thank you!
Instagram - @PhysiVantage
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel.
Music by: Misty Murphy
- Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!
4 Tips to Improve the Quality of Your Training and Accelerate Progress Toward Your Goals!
It's been said that the definition of insanity is doing the same thing expecting to get different results. Progress demands change. Doing hard things demands great change. Uncommon success demands uncommon self-awareness, discipline, and effort.
This podcast presents four ways to refine, re-invent, or perhaps completely overhaul your training to get better results in the pursuit of your goals.
RUNDOWN
8:50 - Develop a detailed and compelling game plan for 2020. On a calendar, block in possible road trips, competitions, and other major life events. Consider what additional shorter trips (weekends and holidays) you can schedule. Now, think about developing a training plan to be maximally effective for preparing you for each trip. Don't forget to include a 3 to 7 days "training taper" before significant trips.
11:45 - Refine, re-invent, or overhaul your training! Do you do the same familiar training program day after day? Are you now training in the same basic ways you did one year ago? If so, it's time for a change! Listen closely for ideas how....and beware of the "shiny object"!
25:55 - Begin using Auto-Regulation before every serious climbing-specific workout. This is a big-time tip! Pretty much all elite athletes use auto-regulation, and so should you! In this section, I describe 4 "stages" of recovery, and how you can determine your stage of climbing-specific recovery on any given workout day. Listen closely, and develop your own personalized progressive warm-up to accurately auto-regulate all of your serious climbing workouts.
57:40 - Add a new element to your training! Something you don’t ever do...or do infrequently. It must be climbing-specific and it must make sense to do...in terms of addressing a physical or technical weakness. View this new thing as a wild card—something that you might be apprehensive or scared to do. Sometimes in climbing, the thing you fear or avoid is exactly what you NEED to do to open the door to another level of performance.
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST!
- Visit PhysiVantage.com to learn about the first complete line of nutritional products designed by climbers, for climbers. PhysiVantage products are research-based...and they work! Get a physical advantage, beginning today! Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15
- Want to learn more about training? Check out the 3rd edition of the international best-seller Training for Climbing!
- Please SHARE this podcast with a friend, and write a REVIEW in iTunes. Thank you!
Instagram - @PhysiVantage
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel.
Music by: Misty Murphy
- Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!
Previous Episode

Episode #43 - 10 Tips and Concepts to Make 2020 Your Best Year Yet!
It's the dawn of a new decade, and so I wanted to take this rare opportunity to record a unique and, hopefully, impactful podcast. The topic is...effective training for the climb that is your life.
This is a short and fast-paced episode, so I hope that you can find some quiet time to listen closely...and think critically about the 10 tips and concepts that I present.
Please listen with an open mind. Search for clues to answering the very important question: "how can I become more effective at pursuing my life goals...and enjoying every day along the way?" I strongly recommend writing down some new and inspiring goals for 2020 (and beyond).
Now, immediately get to work on developing a system for reaching your goals. Exude a bias for action each and every day, and I guarantee that many of your goals will be realized!
RUNDOWN
0:20 – Intro to the 10 tips and concepts for effective training for life!
2:00 - Concept #1: The quality of your life is directly related to the quality of your thoughts.
4:11 - Concept #2: To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do.
6:05 - Concept #3: Clarity of values and goals—and a clear purpose for living—form the foundation for a life full of rich and transcending experiences.
7:25 - Tip #4: Once you have set a compelling goal, you MUST develop a dynamic intelligent system of action...that will maximize the effectiveness of your daily efforts. Listen to podcast #42 for in-depth coverage >>
8:25 - Concept #5: Risk is a precursor to reward, and almost anything is possible once you conquer the fear of taking calculated risks.
10:00 - Concept #6: Singular focus and indomitable persistence know no limits. This is where you need to channel your inner CHHOM. What’s CHHOM? Listen to podcast #37 to learn the superpowers of top climbers>>
10:50 - Concept #7: Obstacles and adversity make you stronger—and, they are often a blessing in disguise.
11:45 - Tip #8: Life is subtle: sweat the small stuff, NOT the big stuff. (This is the opposite of conventional wisdom—however, conventional wisdom is the way of the masses...and often NOT the way to uncommon success.)
16:10 - Concept #9: The most critical pivot points in life are often that brief moment between stimulus and response. Your destiny is a result of all the decisions you make, and so it’s vital that you are fully engaged in the decision-making process as often as possible.
17:25 - Tip #10: Enjoy this moment: this moment is your life! Every passing minute and every single day....is a minute and a day that you will never get back. It's life currency spent (or invested) and now gone. Therefore, what could be more valuable than being fully engaged—mind, body, and spirit—in everything you do?
19:12 - My Happy New Year 2020 toast to you, Dear Listener...
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST!
- Visit PhysiVantage.com to learn about the first complete line of nutritional products designed by climbers, for climbers. PhysiVantage products are research-based...and they work! Get a physical advantage, beginning today! Save 10% with checkout code: SAVE10
- Want to learn more about training? Check out the 3rd edition of the international best-seller Training for Climbing!
- Please SHARE this podcast with a friend, and write a REVIEW in iTunes. Thank you!
Instagram - @PhysiVantage
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel.
Music by: Misty Murphy
- Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!
Next Episode

Episode #45 - Ask Coach Horst (Training for Climbing Questions Answered)
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 9 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...hangboard training, diagnosing a finger injury, autoregulation use in competition, energy system training, optimal training for a Masters climber, protein requirements, and blood flow restriction training. Listen in!
Podcast Rundown
0:15 - Introduction to Ask Coach Horst
1:45 - About POWERPLEX plant-based protein and collagen alternative for vegan climbers. Use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage products.
3:05 - Question #1 - What are your thoughts on hangboard training on climbing days...as well as on consecutive days?
7:50 - Question #2 - Can you give me some insight into my finger injury...which is painful at the base of the ring finger, but also extends down into the palm and forearm?
10:10 - Question #3 - What's the optimal length of rest between strength/power exercises and powerful bouldering?
14:15 - Question #4 - What do you think about the use of auto-regulation on competition days? Might the findings potentially hurt the mental state of the athlete? (Learn more about Auto-Regulation in Podcast #44.)
19:00 - Question #5 - How can I incorporate Energy System Training concepts into a periodized training program? (Learn more about Energy System Training in podcasts #21 - #28.)
26:00 - Question #6 - What advice do you have for a 50-something climber wanting to train right and climb for many years to come?
32:54 - Question #7 - How much protein do I need to consume daily to recover optimally?
41`:40 - Question #8 - When doing weighted pull-ups should I go down the whole way or should I maintain a bit of arm-bend at the bottom?
45:40 - Question #9 - I'd like to do some blood flow restriction training (BFR) -- what protocol do you recommend for a healthy climber?
- PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend or on social media.
- Learn about Eric's new brand PhysiVāntage and how performance nutrition can help you train harder and climb better.
Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
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