Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Eric J. Hörst
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Top 10 Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast Episodes
Goodpods has curated a list of the 10 best Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast episodes, ranked by the number of listens and likes each episode have garnered from our listeners. If you are listening to Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast for the first time, there's no better place to start than with one of these standout episodes. If you are a fan of the show, vote for your favorite Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast episode by adding your comments to the episode page.
Episode #15: Reflections on a Roadtrip & 5 Training/Performance Myths BUSTED!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
08/10/17 • 60 min
In this podcast, Eric Hörst presents many practical tips for climbing your best on a roadtrip...and for training in safe and effective ways, by steering clear of popular training myths and dogma.
Rundown
1:10 – Reflections on a roadtrip—tips for performing your best while on an extended climbing trip.
3:20 – Learn about the “golden period” of a roadtrip—when you are typically the strongest and most powerful...and be able to climb the hardest.
4:10 – Why the best-trained climbers actually get weaker (and lose high-end power) during a multi-week climbing trip.
7:45 – What’s the best ratio of climbing days vs. rest days, while on a long climbing trip.
9:55 – Importance of diet and sleep for optimizing recovery and performing your best on a roadtrip.
13:38 – Upon returning for a long roadtrip, how long should you break from serious training & climbing?
15:20 – Eric comments on Adam Ondra’s mega-project...perhaps the world’s first 5.15d.
18:08 – Introduction to the “Training & Performance Mythbusters” segment.
20:38 – Myth #1: Hangboard training is only appropriate for advanced climbers. (Learn the truth....that hangboard training is useful—for developing finger strength AND building stronger tendons & pulleys—for all climbers other than beginner and recently injured climbers.)
29:55 – Myth #2: Campus training, as commonly shown in social media feeds, is something you should be doing...because campus training is the best method of developing a stronger, more powerful upper-body for climbing. (Learn the truth....and how “pre-hab” training is essential before adding campus training to your program.)
36:45 – Myth #3: The widely publicized “10,000-hour Rule” of practice applies to climbing....therefore you must climb as often and as much as possible so as to accumulate the 10,000 hours needed to become elite. (The truth? Applied to climbing...this rule is bogus! With good coaching, smart training, a high-level of motivation/dedication, and favorable genetics, you can become a high-level climber in far fewer than 10,000 hours of practice.)
40:02 – Myth #4: Body building and other “fitness” magazine (and web sites) are a good source of effective training techniques that you can apply to climbing. (Hear Eric bust this myth!)
43:45 – What about novel bodybuilding techniques, such as the recently popularized Blood Flow Restriction training? It’s been “proven” effective by research, right?
47:12 – Learn why it’s best for a climber NOT to have large, bulging biceps....or excessive muscles elsewhere.
48:40 – Myth #5: The latest diet fad (whatever it may be) is likely useful to a serious climber. (Eric will address the currently popular ketogenic/LCHF diet...)
53:00 – How about popular dietary supplements, such as fish oil, a multi-vitamin, creatine monohydrate, and such?
57:40 – Episode wrap up
Music by: Misty Murphy
Episode #10: Fingerboard Training to Increasing Maximum Grip Strength
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
03/01/17 • 55 min
In terms of physical attributes, increasing relative peak finger force is central to taking your climbing to the next level—think of this as the finger force you can apply to a rock hold in relation to the body mass the fingers must support. Improving this finger strength-to-weight ratio is possible by increasing the numerator (greater finger strength) and decreasing the denominator (lowering body mass).
While there are many different fingerboard training methods/protocols/programs (some good, some bad) in the public domain, this podcasts will present four evidence-based protocols that work. Experienced climbers, with no recent history of injury to the fingers/elbows/shoulders, can employ one of these maximum-grip-strength protocols on a twice-a-week basis as supplement to time spent climbing. Aggregate number of climbing and finger training days per week must not exceed four—resting the fingers a minimum of three days per week is essential for neuromuscular recovery and finger tendon remodeling. Break this rule and you’ll likely end up “broken”....in one way or another.
Podcast Rundown:
1:14 - Review of 5 reasons why stronger fingers are central to taking your climbing to the next level
4:24 - Intro to maximum finger strength training on a hangboard
4:50 - Importance of "Relative Peak Finger Force"
10:10 - 3 Hangboard training modalities
13:33 - Training protocol 1: "Minimum Edge"
19:14 - Training protocol 2: "Maximum Weight 10-second Hangs"
25:20 - Training protocol 3: "7-53 Weight Hangs"
32:00 - Training protocol 4: "7/3 Repeaters"
41:00 - How to fingerboard with good technique...to protect & strengthen your shoulders.
45:05 - Hangboard training program design - How to integrate your with your other workouts and performance climbing.
53:00 - Closing comments
Music: Misty Murphy
Download all the monthly training podcasts for free by subscribing to the "Eric Horst's Training for Climbing" podcast on iTunes. Please leave a review on iTunes!
#100: The 10 Secrets to Climbing Harder!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
06/11/24 • 64 min
To celebrate the 100th episode of the T4C podcast, I wanted to serve up a powerful, comprehensive, yet easily digestible and actionable list of things you can do today to break through a performance plateau...and begin a journey towards being the best climber you can be!
No matter your current experience or level of climbing, I guarantee that you will find this episode to be a tour de force of things you can do to accelerate your rate of improvement...and increase your confidence, joy, and experience while climbing.
Therefore, a more accurate title of this podcast might be..."The 10 secrets to accelerating improvement and climbing your very best!"
I've got a lot of territory to cover in the next hour, so let's get started!
Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
Episode #17: How to Manage the Fear of Falling
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
10/25/17 • 79 min
If you occasionally struggle with the fear of falling, then this podcast is for you!
While the fear of falling is most acute among beginner and intermediate climbers, it's a fact that advanced climbers and the pros also experience a bit of falling fear from time to time. After all, fear is an important self-protective response—the goal, then, isn’t to eliminate fear, but to manage it...which is the focus of this podcast.
My Lithuanian friends, Dei and Ben, have created a series of excellent YouTube videos (called “Day in Nature“) with the common theme of exploring the fear of falling. I was happy to join Dei and Ben (and their YouTube channel viewers) for this online coaching session, in which I answer their fear-related questions and share a variety of mental training tips to better manage fear and advance their climbing ability. No matter if you're an indoor climber, boulderer, or sport climber, I trust you'll find some useful tips and techniques to address your unique vertical-world concerns and fearful experiences.
Ultimately, learning to expertly manage fear is a long-term endeavor—there are no quick fixes—and so I hope this hour-plus-long podcast will help kick-start your journey to becoming a more confident, in-control, and courageous climber!
Podcast Rundown:
1:07 - Introducing Jerry Moffatt's MASTERMIND!
2:04 - Eric's intro to coaching the fear of falling.
3:45 - Beginning discussion with Dei & Ben of "Day in Nature"
5:00 – The goal of controlling fear rather than letting fear control you!
10:00 - Legitimate fears vs. phantom fears.
11:30 - The importance of taking practice falls (in a very safe, controlled setting).
13:40 - How to combat fears of the rope getting cut...or a bolt pulling out.
18:45 - Developing the skill of managing fear is a long-term process....that takes effort over months & years.
19:30 - Why do some people conquer fear faster than others?
22:30 - A look inside Alex Honnold's brain (via MRI)...and his "quiet" amygdala.
27:23 - How to handle fear of runouts between bolts?
31:24 - Value of reading books on mental training (such as Warriors Way, Maximum Climbing, MasterMind).
37:00 - Mental training should be comprehensive...and not just focused on managing fear. This is a rich area with potential for huge breakthroughs in performance!
38:12 - Mental training literally changes your brain (neuroplasticity).
38:30 - Using breath-focused meditation as training (at home) and for performance (at the crag).
40:50 - For expertly skilled climbers, further improvement often comes down to mental training...and getting stronger!
41:15 - What about grabbing the rope (or quick draws) when falling?
43:10 - Tips for returning to climbing after an injurious fall.
48:45 - Why are children often less scared of falling than adults?
53:10 - What about fear when clipping the second bolt of a route?
56:23 - How to assess a fall...determining a "safe fall" vs. a dangerous fall situation?
59:55 - What about climbers who never fall (because they climb so far below their maximum ability)? How much harder might they be able to climb by becoming willing/able to fall?
1:03:50 - Who was the most fearful that I've ever coached or climbed with?
1:06:00 - The difference between Anxiety vs. Fear.
1:07:01 - The importance of "mete-cognition"...for improving your mental game and performance (in anything).
1:08:45 - Recognizing and breaking fear "triggers".
1:10:16 - Just as you train your muscles with exercises...it's essential to use mental training exercise to strengthen your mental muscle!
1:12:20 - My two favorite mental training exercises are....
1:14:44 - How to do effective visualization? (Hint: It must be more than just a mental rehearsal of sequence!)
1:16:30 - Closing comments by Dei & Ben.
1:17:30 - Eric wraps up podcasts...and asks YOU to share it with a few friends!
Music by Misty Murphy
Episode #57: A Simple System for Extreme Success!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
01/05/21 • 11 min
The beginning of a new year is a great time to think critically about your current situation...and trajectory. What are your short-term goals...and long-term destination? How will you get there?
As you will soon discover, this short podcast transcends climbing performance—it’s about human performance!
What does it take to achieve extreme success? What’s the #1 thing holding most people back from reaching their big life goals? Eric describes his formula for making steady daily progress towards achieving important goals. You can apply this conceptual model to accelerate progress in any endeavor. So what are you waiting for? Listen. Apply. Achieve!
PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>
Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
Podcast #50: 8 Super Powers of the Very Best Climbers
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
07/07/20 • 53 min
What makes great climbers great?
What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos (I call this group "CHHOM")--and others like them--the barrier-breaking and transcendent climbers that they are?
You might be thinking of things like "strong fingers", "low bodyfat, and "excellent sponsorship". Surely these are part of the equation, however, I believe the true Superpowers of these climbers are things you can't measure with a fitness test or financial summary.
In this podcast I present the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers--traits you can develop (gradually) to achieve great success on the rock and in your everyday life. I hope you find this presentation enjoyable and empowering!
Rundown
0:58 - Introduction
2:50 - What does it take to turn an elite climber into one of the very best climbers on the planet?
8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers
5:28 - #1: Becoming comfortable with physical and mental discomfort.
11:53 - #2: Uncommon self-awareness and the willingness to embrace failures and personal weaknesses.
16:00 - #3: Effective goal setting and a habitual bias for action.
21:37 - #4: The power to sacrifice greatly.
27:00 - #5: Maintaining a beginner's mindset despite being a highly praised elite climber.
34:56 - #6: The power to handle failure and overcome adversity.
38:30 - #7: The power to handle their "addiction".
45:44 - #8: The power NOT to care what other people think.
50:00 - Summary of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers.
51:15 - Do you have a #9 or #10 superpower to suggest? Leave your comment on Eric's T4C Twitter @Train4Climbing
52:15 - A brief word about Eric's brand PhysiVāntage -- the first research-based, athlete-proven nutritional supplements for climbers! Get 15% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code PODCAST15 at checkout.
Instagram - @PhysiVantage
For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book!
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel.
Music by: Misty Murphy
- Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!
Episode #38: Ask Coach Horst (Round 6 of Training For Climbing Questions)
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
08/06/19 • 52 min
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...energy system training for alactic power, climbing-specific aerobic energy system training, Tabata training on a hangboard, advice for a beginner wanting to hangboard train, the pros/cons of Ketogenic diet, accelerating healing of an A2 pulley injury. Listen in!
Podcast Rundown
4:57 - Question #1 - How important is a climbing-specific aerobic training block at the beginning of a training cycle?
9:42 - Question #2 - Can you provide me with tips on staying healthy and motivated...and supporting my longevity in climbing?
16:12 - Question #3 - How many exercises can I include in an alactic energy system training session for developing maximum strength and power?
22:30 - Question #4 - I've read about the Tabata training protocol and I'm wondering what you think of applying it to hangboard training...by alternating 20-second hangs with 10 seconds of rest?
27:50 - Question #5 - I'm new to climbing and I feel that my weak fingers are a limiting constraint. Do you agree with the common rule of "no hangboard training in the first year of learning to climb"?
32:44 - Question #6 - I've been on a ketogenic diet for the past 3 weeks, and I feel terrific! What's your opinion the ketogenic diet and what are the pros and cons for a climber?
42:05 - Question #7 - I recently injured (mild pain) both of my middle fingers on a tweaky move. I've been doing light stretching and very light exercise to help support healing--what other things can I do to accelerate the healing process?
- Learn about Eric's new brand PhysiVāntage >>
- Listen to Podcast #36 on the vital topic of tendon trainng and health, and what you can do to improve tendon and ligament pulley strength and endurance.
NOTE: If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, climbing ability level, and years climbing.
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Episode #60 - How to Create "Low-Gravity Days"...and Climb Your Very Best!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
04/01/21 • 66 min
Learn 8 things to "get right" in order to climb your very best...and to help create more of those wonderful low-gravity send days!
Coach Hörst provides powerful tips for priming your body for peak performance in the days leading up to your weekend climbing. He also gives valuable game-day master tips for optimizing your performance and accelerating recover at the boulders and crags.
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on your FIRST PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS.
RETURNING CUSTOMERS: Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code FRIENDS15
Podcast Rundown
3:40 - First, a few comments about the importance of reducing emotional "weight".
4:35 - Tip #1: Arrive at the boulders or cliff truly 100% fresh -- a rare thing among enthusiastic, hard-training climbers. Learn how to do it!
8:30 - Tip #2: Get your sleep and nutrition right both in the days leading up to your climbing...and while on climbing weekends or trips.
17:20 - Tip #3: Engage in a proper warm-up before every climbing day. Learn what things you should do...and how long it should take.
23:40 - Tip #4: Make the most of your day-one freshness and stoke. Should you invest your time and energy into onsight and flash climbing, or projecting? How much should you save of yourself for day two?
28:45 - Tip #5: Strive to "master" a boulder or route...not just thrash through and survive it. This is a rich topic that Eric drills deeply into...with many tips for climbing more efficiently and channeling your inner Ondra!
40:50 - Tip #6: Rest optimally between routes. Learn how long to rest between goes on your project boulder or route...and how you can accelerate recovery.
46:05 - Tip #7: Learn how to breathe more effectively. Yes, proper breathing (and brief breath-holding) is important!
53:53 - Tip #8: Eat and drink the right things and in the right amounts. Small things can make a massive different in your energy and climbing outcomes--this includes the things you eat and drink!
1:00:00 - BONUS TIP: Love climbing unconditionally! Enjoy each moment that you are on the rock. Let go of both past failures and thoughts of potential future outcomes. Trust the process! Let the send evolve organically...when it's meant to be.
PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage performance Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>
Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
Episode #44 - How to Train More Effectively and Climb Harder!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
02/06/20 • 78 min
4 Tips to Improve the Quality of Your Training and Accelerate Progress Toward Your Goals!
It's been said that the definition of insanity is doing the same thing expecting to get different results. Progress demands change. Doing hard things demands great change. Uncommon success demands uncommon self-awareness, discipline, and effort.
This podcast presents four ways to refine, re-invent, or perhaps completely overhaul your training to get better results in the pursuit of your goals.
RUNDOWN
8:50 - Develop a detailed and compelling game plan for 2020. On a calendar, block in possible road trips, competitions, and other major life events. Consider what additional shorter trips (weekends and holidays) you can schedule. Now, think about developing a training plan to be maximally effective for preparing you for each trip. Don't forget to include a 3 to 7 days "training taper" before significant trips.
11:45 - Refine, re-invent, or overhaul your training! Do you do the same familiar training program day after day? Are you now training in the same basic ways you did one year ago? If so, it's time for a change! Listen closely for ideas how....and beware of the "shiny object"!
25:55 - Begin using Auto-Regulation before every serious climbing-specific workout. This is a big-time tip! Pretty much all elite athletes use auto-regulation, and so should you! In this section, I describe 4 "stages" of recovery, and how you can determine your stage of climbing-specific recovery on any given workout day. Listen closely, and develop your own personalized progressive warm-up to accurately auto-regulate all of your serious climbing workouts.
57:40 - Add a new element to your training! Something you don’t ever do...or do infrequently. It must be climbing-specific and it must make sense to do...in terms of addressing a physical or technical weakness. View this new thing as a wild card—something that you might be apprehensive or scared to do. Sometimes in climbing, the thing you fear or avoid is exactly what you NEED to do to open the door to another level of performance.
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST!
- Visit PhysiVantage.com to learn about the first complete line of nutritional products designed by climbers, for climbers. PhysiVantage products are research-based...and they work! Get a physical advantage, beginning today! Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15
- Want to learn more about training? Check out the 3rd edition of the international best-seller Training for Climbing!
- Please SHARE this podcast with a friend, and write a REVIEW in iTunes. Thank you!
Instagram - @PhysiVantage
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel.
Music by: Misty Murphy
- Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!
#110: Join My "SEND 2025" Challenge! (deadline to join January 3, 2025)
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
12/28/24 • 8 min
In this brief episode, I invite you to join my "Send 2025" New Year's Challenge!
JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >> I designed this free 6-week challenge to help motivate and inspire a fresh, focused, and optimistic start to the new year...and hopefully help you set off on your best year ever!
The challenge is action-oriented -- so we'll ask you to set some achievable short-term goals to reach for during the 6-weeks of the challenge. These action items can relate to your training and nutrition goals for the new year, but also target bad habits you’d like to change...or other behaviors that are holding you back from reaching the next level in climbing, in your career or relationships, or any other important life area.
To serve as your North Star for this challenge, we will ask you to select a specific "Challenge Goal" for the 6 weeks of the contest, as well as set a "Send 2025 Mega Goal" that you'll be working towards throughout the year ahead. We hope that with our encouragement and support you will reach all your goals big or small!
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JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >>
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SUPPORT THE TRAINING FOR CLIMBING PODCAST!
Visit our sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition at PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.
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FAQ
How many episodes does Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast have?
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast currently has 111 episodes available.
What topics does Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast cover?
The podcast is about Health & Fitness, Nutrition, Training, Climbing, Fitness, Podcasts, Sports and Wilderness.
What is the most popular episode on Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast?
The episode title 'Episode #42 - An "Intelligent System" Approach to Climbing Training and Goal Pursuit' is the most popular.
What is the average episode length on Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast?
The average episode length on Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast is 52 minutes.
How often are episodes of Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast released?
Episodes of Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast are typically released every 30 days.
When was the first episode of Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast?
The first episode of Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast was released on Jan 23, 2015.
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