Episode #17: How to Manage the Fear of Falling
10/25/17 • 79 min
If you occasionally struggle with the fear of falling, then this podcast is for you!
While the fear of falling is most acute among beginner and intermediate climbers, it's a fact that advanced climbers and the pros also experience a bit of falling fear from time to time. After all, fear is an important self-protective response—the goal, then, isn’t to eliminate fear, but to manage it...which is the focus of this podcast.
My Lithuanian friends, Dei and Ben, have created a series of excellent YouTube videos (called “Day in Nature“) with the common theme of exploring the fear of falling. I was happy to join Dei and Ben (and their YouTube channel viewers) for this online coaching session, in which I answer their fear-related questions and share a variety of mental training tips to better manage fear and advance their climbing ability. No matter if you're an indoor climber, boulderer, or sport climber, I trust you'll find some useful tips and techniques to address your unique vertical-world concerns and fearful experiences.
Ultimately, learning to expertly manage fear is a long-term endeavor—there are no quick fixes—and so I hope this hour-plus-long podcast will help kick-start your journey to becoming a more confident, in-control, and courageous climber!
Podcast Rundown:
1:07 - Introducing Jerry Moffatt's MASTERMIND!
2:04 - Eric's intro to coaching the fear of falling.
3:45 - Beginning discussion with Dei & Ben of "Day in Nature"
5:00 – The goal of controlling fear rather than letting fear control you!
10:00 - Legitimate fears vs. phantom fears.
11:30 - The importance of taking practice falls (in a very safe, controlled setting).
13:40 - How to combat fears of the rope getting cut...or a bolt pulling out.
18:45 - Developing the skill of managing fear is a long-term process....that takes effort over months & years.
19:30 - Why do some people conquer fear faster than others?
22:30 - A look inside Alex Honnold's brain (via MRI)...and his "quiet" amygdala.
27:23 - How to handle fear of runouts between bolts?
31:24 - Value of reading books on mental training (such as Warriors Way, Maximum Climbing, MasterMind).
37:00 - Mental training should be comprehensive...and not just focused on managing fear. This is a rich area with potential for huge breakthroughs in performance!
38:12 - Mental training literally changes your brain (neuroplasticity).
38:30 - Using breath-focused meditation as training (at home) and for performance (at the crag).
40:50 - For expertly skilled climbers, further improvement often comes down to mental training...and getting stronger!
41:15 - What about grabbing the rope (or quick draws) when falling?
43:10 - Tips for returning to climbing after an injurious fall.
48:45 - Why are children often less scared of falling than adults?
53:10 - What about fear when clipping the second bolt of a route?
56:23 - How to assess a fall...determining a "safe fall" vs. a dangerous fall situation?
59:55 - What about climbers who never fall (because they climb so far below their maximum ability)? How much harder might they be able to climb by becoming willing/able to fall?
1:03:50 - Who was the most fearful that I've ever coached or climbed with?
1:06:00 - The difference between Anxiety vs. Fear.
1:07:01 - The importance of "mete-cognition"...for improving your mental game and performance (in anything).
1:08:45 - Recognizing and breaking fear "triggers".
1:10:16 - Just as you train your muscles with exercises...it's essential to use mental training exercise to strengthen your mental muscle!
1:12:20 - My two favorite mental training exercises are....
1:14:44 - How to do effective visualization? (Hint: It must be more than just a mental rehearsal of sequence!)
1:16:30 - Closing comments by Dei & Ben.
1:17:30 - Eric wraps up podcasts...and asks YOU to share it with a few friends!
Music by Misty Murphy
If you occasionally struggle with the fear of falling, then this podcast is for you!
While the fear of falling is most acute among beginner and intermediate climbers, it's a fact that advanced climbers and the pros also experience a bit of falling fear from time to time. After all, fear is an important self-protective response—the goal, then, isn’t to eliminate fear, but to manage it...which is the focus of this podcast.
My Lithuanian friends, Dei and Ben, have created a series of excellent YouTube videos (called “Day in Nature“) with the common theme of exploring the fear of falling. I was happy to join Dei and Ben (and their YouTube channel viewers) for this online coaching session, in which I answer their fear-related questions and share a variety of mental training tips to better manage fear and advance their climbing ability. No matter if you're an indoor climber, boulderer, or sport climber, I trust you'll find some useful tips and techniques to address your unique vertical-world concerns and fearful experiences.
Ultimately, learning to expertly manage fear is a long-term endeavor—there are no quick fixes—and so I hope this hour-plus-long podcast will help kick-start your journey to becoming a more confident, in-control, and courageous climber!
Podcast Rundown:
1:07 - Introducing Jerry Moffatt's MASTERMIND!
2:04 - Eric's intro to coaching the fear of falling.
3:45 - Beginning discussion with Dei & Ben of "Day in Nature"
5:00 – The goal of controlling fear rather than letting fear control you!
10:00 - Legitimate fears vs. phantom fears.
11:30 - The importance of taking practice falls (in a very safe, controlled setting).
13:40 - How to combat fears of the rope getting cut...or a bolt pulling out.
18:45 - Developing the skill of managing fear is a long-term process....that takes effort over months & years.
19:30 - Why do some people conquer fear faster than others?
22:30 - A look inside Alex Honnold's brain (via MRI)...and his "quiet" amygdala.
27:23 - How to handle fear of runouts between bolts?
31:24 - Value of reading books on mental training (such as Warriors Way, Maximum Climbing, MasterMind).
37:00 - Mental training should be comprehensive...and not just focused on managing fear. This is a rich area with potential for huge breakthroughs in performance!
38:12 - Mental training literally changes your brain (neuroplasticity).
38:30 - Using breath-focused meditation as training (at home) and for performance (at the crag).
40:50 - For expertly skilled climbers, further improvement often comes down to mental training...and getting stronger!
41:15 - What about grabbing the rope (or quick draws) when falling?
43:10 - Tips for returning to climbing after an injurious fall.
48:45 - Why are children often less scared of falling than adults?
53:10 - What about fear when clipping the second bolt of a route?
56:23 - How to assess a fall...determining a "safe fall" vs. a dangerous fall situation?
59:55 - What about climbers who never fall (because they climb so far below their maximum ability)? How much harder might they be able to climb by becoming willing/able to fall?
1:03:50 - Who was the most fearful that I've ever coached or climbed with?
1:06:00 - The difference between Anxiety vs. Fear.
1:07:01 - The importance of "mete-cognition"...for improving your mental game and performance (in anything).
1:08:45 - Recognizing and breaking fear "triggers".
1:10:16 - Just as you train your muscles with exercises...it's essential to use mental training exercise to strengthen your mental muscle!
1:12:20 - My two favorite mental training exercises are....
1:14:44 - How to do effective visualization? (Hint: It must be more than just a mental rehearsal of sequence!)
1:16:30 - Closing comments by Dei & Ben.
1:17:30 - Eric wraps up podcasts...and asks YOU to share it with a few friends!
Music by Misty Murphy
Previous Episode
Episode #16: The Future of Training for Climbing
Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via advances in training & testing technologies, nuanced program design, and genetic testing and epigenetics. This is a fascinating podcast rich with clues for improving the effectiveness of your training, reducing injury risk, pursuing your genetic potential, and for living longer and prospering in the vertical world.
If you enjoy this podcast, please share it with your climbing friends via social media....and consider writing a review in iTunes. You can support this podcast by purchasing a book(s) at www.TrainingForClimbing.com. Thank you, and enjoy!
Podcast Rundown
2:00 – Intro to the future of training for climbing.
5:00- Importance of climbing research and veteran coaching in pointing the way forward.
8:35 – Comments on Adam Ondra’s ascent of “Silence”...the world’s first 5.15d/9c.
18:00 – Overview of past training innovations...campus board, hangboard, etc.
20:35 – Recent innovations...the Treadwall, Moon Board, Lattice Wall, Zlagboard, etc.
24:40 – The need to establish standardize testing of climbing-specific strength, power, endurance....to determine the relative strength of the three bio-energetic systems.
25:10 – My vision for the future of training for climbing—broken into three parts:
29:18 - #1: Stop guessing; start testing. The importance of accurate physiological assessment. Leveraging "big data".
47:05 - #2: Smarter program design--short-term nuance with a good long-term aim. Importance of understanding hormetic stress and cellular signaling to getting the most out of your training investment.
57:00 – #3: Genetic testing and training program design with epigenetics in mind.
1:07:25 – Closing thoughts.
Music: Misty Murphy
Next Episode
Episode #18: Winter/Off-Season Training Strategy
Learn a proven and effective approach to off-season training, broken down for beginner-, intermediate-, and advanced/pro-level climbers. Eric discusses how to handle nagging injuries, refresh motivation, and develop an winter-season training strategy to climbing your hardest next year!
Podcast Rundown
1:00 - Podcast introduction including a discussion of new projects and my T4C YouTube channel.
2:00 - Brief intro to Jerry Moffatt's MasterMind...the best-selling Gimme Kraft, and Claudia Ziegler's "The Young Savages" book (featuring Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, and more!)
5:50 - T4C Raffle! Eric explains how you can win a free copy of The Young Savages or a signed copy of Training For Climbing (3rd edition)
7:43 - Introduction to...End-of-season & off-season training strategy.
11:40 - Step #1: Take 2 weeks off from training and climbing, then evaluate your physical health. If still experiencing any joint or muscles pain, then get it resolved--see a doctor or physio. Do NOT try to "climb through" your injury! Learn how to "train around" it.
19:40 - Step #2: Begin an intelligent, well-designed and executed off-season training program that addresses technical & mental weaknesses and physical constraints. Program recommendations will be served up for beginner, intermediate and advanced-level climbers.
22:08 - The best off-season training approach for beginner climbers is....
27:52 - Eric explains his "training target" analogy.
28:15 - Intermediate program recommendations
37:00 - The importance of training the rotator cuff and scapular stabilizer muscles--not just for injured climbers!
38:06 - Learn how the brain acts as a governor limiting your grip strength in body positions that severely stress the shoulder joint. Yes, a stronger rotator cuff = stronger fingers! Specific exercise guidelines are found in chapter 6 of Training for Climbing.
41:32 - Advanced/Pro-level off-season training tips. Physical testing and expert coaching is essential to hit the bull's eye of your training target--vital for opening up the next grade.
48:00 - Importance of seeing the big picture (and mission), while nailing the critical training details (the bull's eye!).
49:10 - Warning about training too much, thus exceeding your recovery ability...and getting lackluster results...and risking injury.
51:30 - Wrap up and closing comments.
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Music by: Misty Murphy
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