Rockies Wisdom: Barry Blanchard (Part 1)

Explicit content warning

11/10/19 • 77 min

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard.

Barry’s name is synonymous with some of the most iconic lines in the Canadian Rockies - and his first ascents on these mythical walls are many: from the Andromeda Strain - to the north pillar of North Twin - to a gutsy climb on Mount Cephran called M-16 - and a visionary line of beauty up mount Robson’s emperor face.

But like many alpinists, Barry’s career has been defined just as much by strong partnerships and friendships he’s forged, than by the mountains themselves - and this was especially evident during a recent conversation we had.

We talked about everything, from his early experiences in the Rockies, to a string of ascents in the early to mid 80’s with Dave Cheesmond, and much much more.

Music by Evan Phillips

Support the show at Patreon

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard.

We talked about everything, from his early experiences in the Rockies, to a string of ascents in the early to mid 80’s with Dave Cheesmond, and much much more.

Music by Evan Phillips

Support the show at Patreon

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

Previous Episode

Red River Roots: Jason Tyler Burton

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know songwriter, and mountain traveller, Jason Tyler Burton.

Growing up in a working class family on the outskirts of Lexington, KY - Burton was raised hearing the stories of his grandfather, who like many Kentuckians of times past, worked hard to make a living in the nearby coal mines of Harlan County. Although Burton would take a much different career path, one thing he’s carried with him throughout his life, is an appreciation for the history, culture, and simplicity of his Kentucky roots.

This influence can be heard throughout Burton’s new album, aptly titled Kentuckian. Spanning the genres of folk, alt-country and bluegrass, Kentuckian is a musical commentary on the past, present and future of rural life in Kentucky. Americana-UK writes, “Kentuckian is a straight down the middle Americana roots album full of all the delights of the genre. Some stirring playing, acoustic rhythms and rhymes, some keening harmonies, strong blue-collar songwriting all topped off by Tyler Burton’s authentic voice.”

I recently got a chance to sit down with Jason, to talk about his new album, the ups and downs of being a working musician, as well as his love for the mountains, and living simply.

Music by Jason Tyler Burton

Support the show at Patreon

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot

Next Episode

Rockies Wisdom: Barry Blanchard (Part 2)

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll dive into the final segment of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard.

In the first episode, we heard Barry tell stories of his early years in the Canadian Rockies, as well as some of the formative partnerships he developed during that time. We heard about iconic routes like The Andromeda Strain, The North Pillar of North Twin, and the east face of Mount Fay to name a few. But there was one mountain - a mountain that is central to my own climbing career - that I wanted to spend a little more time talking with Barry about. And that majestic peak is Mount Robson.

Rising over 10,000 feet from the Fraser River Valley, Robson is the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. It’s also one of the most recognizable mountains in North America, if not the world, drawing hundreds of thousands of tourists each year, hoping to catch a glimpse of it’s frosty summit. But to mountaineers, Robson is much more than a photo opportunity. Rather, it is a sacred destination. I place to test one’s self. All the mountain’s aspects feature classic routes - and some walls, like the Emperor Face - harbor some of the biggest and most challenging lines in North America.

One of these lines is called Infinite Patience - a route Barry established up the right side of the Emperor Face in 2002 with partners Eric Dumerac and Phillipe Pellet.

I asked Barry to talk about his years long obsession with Robson, why the mountain is meaningful to him, and what it took to finally make it up Infinite Patience after years of attempts.

Music by Evan Phillips

Support the show at Patreon

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot