The Firn Line

The Cascades of North America are a beautiful and diverse range of mountains. These peaks, which range from sharp, granitic towers, to glaciated and crumbly volcanoes, extend all the way from southern British Columbia through Washington and Oregon - all the way to Northern California. And if you live in the Portland, OR area - there’s one Cascade peak that dominates the horizon - Wy’East or Mount Hood as it’s commonly known.

The mountain, which is a dormant volcano - is a literal playground for outdoor enthusiasts, from skiers, snowboarders, hikers - and of course, mountaineers.

Although Wy’East is climbed thousands of times every year up it’s easier routes, some lines offer a more challenging experience - like the Eliot Glacier, and Sandy Glacier headwalls. But no technical route is more sought after, and perhaps feared, than the Yocum Ridge.

First climbed in 1959 by Fred Becky and co., The west-facing serrated, knife-edge ridge - which splits the Reid and Sandy Glaciers, is a route for experienced alpinists - as it requires glacier travel skills, in addition to advanced snow and ice climbing techniques. The ridge is made up of 3 distinct gendarmes (or towers) composed of crumbly, volcanic rock. The top of the route is blocked by a massive, rime coated headwall, which is often skirted to the right or left.

Of the unique conditions needed to climb the Yocum Ridge, Jeff Thomas, author of Oregen High: A climbing guide, writes, “Rotten rock towers guard it’s crest. They cannot be climbed unless they are covered with a thick layer of rime ice.” He goes on to say, “Contrary to what common sense would dictate, rime ice is more solid than the rock on the Yocum Ridge. The catch is that rime is often impossible to protect. Take your ice tools, pickets, and other technology, but know that on this route the old advice still holds true; the leader must not fall.”

So it was with this mindset, that pacific northwest based alpinists Nick Sweeney and Kyle Tarry, set off to climb the Yocum in early March of this year. I recently got a chance to speak with Nick about the route - which turned out to be a significant, and once in a lifetime experience.
(Cover Photo: Kyle Tarry)

Music by Evan Phillips

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A young Alaskan alpinist, August Franzen, shares his story of climbing through life-changing love, and heart-wrenching grief.

Links:
The Devil's Thumb (AAJ)
Mt. Burkett (Alpinist )
The Firn Line (Website)
Patreon

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot
Declination Roasting

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned climber and author, Margo Talbot.

Growing up on the east coast of Canada in New Brunswick, Margo was raised in what she describes as a chaotic family environment. It was this environment, often devoid of love and compassion, that led Margo to start dreaming of a new life. But as a teenager, a new life meant hanging out away from home, oftentimes on the streets, and eventually using drugs and alcohol.

By the time Margo had become a young adult, she was fully-immersed in a toxic world mixed with chronic depression and drug addiction. She even ended up in jail. For a lot of people, this would have been a hopeless situation.

But when Margo was 28 years old, in the midst of a highly-abusive and toxic relationship, she discovered climbing - and for her, this was the catalyst that would change her life forever. Climbing gave Margo a release, and power, that she’d never before experienced - and within a few years, she was able to harness this new found passion, to kick her addiction, and move forward on a path to healthy living.

Since that time, Margo has forged a life that is inspiring to say the least. In addition to being a world-renowned ice climber, she also runs a successful landscaping business, gives motivational talks to businesses and people around the world, and recently wrote a book chronicling her life called All That Glitters: A Climber's Journey Through Addiction and Depression.

I recently got a chance to have a candid and heartfelt conversation with Margo, and although we talked about climbing, we also talked about the important moments and relationships in her life, and the personal journey that got her to where she is today.

Music by Evan Phillips

Links:
Margo Talbot (website)
Ken Wallator (Rock & Ice)
Karen McNeil
Warren Macdonald
The Firn Line (website)
Patreon

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot
Declination Roasting

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know climber, skier, high-school teacher and coach, Eddie Taylor.

Eddie grew up in different parts of the country. As a youth, he spent time in New Mexico, where he first learned how to ski. It was these formative experiences, alongside trips to National Parks, that instilled a deep reverence and love for the outdoors.

During his high school years, Eddie moved out to Minnesota with his mom and sister, where he excelled in sports - playing basketball, soccer and track and field. But he also had an aptitude for academics, and by the time he graduated, he decided to move out west to Boulder, Colorado, to attend Colorado State University.

Eddie focused on his education, majoring in both Mathematics and Chemistry. But the allure of athletics pulled at him, and with the encouragement of some friends, he walked on to the track and field team. It didn’t take long for Eddie to impress the coaches with his all-around abilities, and before long, he’d earned a scholarship.

By the time Eddie graduated from college, he had a lot to be proud of. He’d accomplished a lot. But like a lot of people in their twenties, Eddie ended up at different crossroads, pulling him in various directions. Although his love for athletics was still there, some of the pull and excitement had waned, and injuries forced him to dial things back. But sometimes adversity brings opportunity.

Boulder, Colorado is a mecca for North American climbing, with classic arenas like Eldorado Canyon, Rifle, and Longs Peak just a stone's throw away. It didn’t take long for Eddie to get into the business, and before long, he was hooked.

Links:
The Firn Line
Patreon
Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot
Declination Roasting

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard.

Barry’s name is synonymous with some of the most iconic lines in the Canadian Rockies - and his first ascents on these mythical walls are many: from the Andromeda Strain - to the north pillar of North Twin - to a gutsy climb on Mount Cephran called M-16 - and a visionary line of beauty up mount Robson’s emperor face.

But like many alpinists, Barry’s career has been defined just as much by strong partnerships and friendships he’s forged, than by the mountains themselves - and this was especially evident during a recent conversation we had.

We talked about everything, from his early experiences in the Rockies, to a string of ascents in the early to mid 80’s with Dave Cheesmond, and much much more.

Music by Evan Phillips

Support the show at Patreon

Sponsors:
Alaska Rock Gym
The Hoarding Marmot