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Skincare Secrets

Skincare Secrets

Damyan Nikolov

Learn to master your regimen. For clear, healthy skin. Bringing you tips, tricks, and guests who share their skincare secrets. Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. Over 500,000 people have used his products. He is the founder of OpenFormula.com - clinical skincare for every budget.
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Goodpods has curated a list of the 10 best Skincare Secrets episodes, ranked by the number of listens and likes each episode have garnered from our listeners. If you are listening to Skincare Secrets for the first time, there's no better place to start than with one of these standout episodes. If you are a fan of the show, vote for your favorite Skincare Secrets episode by adding your comments to the episode page.

Skincare Secrets - #15 This is why you need a NOT-TO-DO list
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07/10/19 • 8 min

----Transcript----

I want to take better care of my skin. I want to take better care of myself. I want to exercise more. I want to… I want to…


But I don’t have time... Isn’t that everyone’s biggest problem today?


And I get it, you cannot fill anymore a glass that’s already full.


The problem is that our glass gets filled by other people. And when we want to add something, there’s no space.


Today, I want to talk about how to make space in your life and regain your time. So you can take better care of yourself, and do the things you want to do.


Anxiety. It is the most commonly experienced emotion in the US today. Unlike many other emotions, which live for a short period of time, Anxiety is something we carry all the time. Why? Why are we so anxious? What’s missing?


The one thing missing in most people’s lives today is time.


Time not to just react and respond to the constant demands on us, but time for ourselves.


And I wanna tell you that taking even a few minutes for yourself, to just breathe and connect, to think about the things YOU want from life… everything changes.


And if you don’t, you can cross your entire to-do list, every day, every week, every month…. And still feel empty.


Because what I’m talking about is a fulfilled life, a life you live on your time and your terms. Where you do the things you want. Instead of feeling anxiety. 


Which is so common for so many people… And you see people trying to change this state of anxiety all the time. To escape this emotional roller coaster.... 

So they can desperately find a moment of zen ...You know, the US has 5% of the global population, but consumes 90% of all the painkillers and 80% of all the cocaine out there. And it doesn’t have to be drugs. 

We reach for food when we’re not hungry for the same reasons. Because we get the same effect when we stuff our bellies. It feels GOOD. We relax. 


But are we fulfilled?


These hectic lives we live SUFFOCATING for time are draining us. Chipping away at our mental health. We are so busy chasing deadlines, running errands, doing house chores. We are putting out fires all the time.


And we are mostly taking care of EVERYONE ELSE’S NEEDS. But we don’t take care of our needs. We don’t stop to just feel. Or think. 


So while we chase the things to satisfy others… we reach out for something to get distracted ourselves. Because we need the ESCAPE. 

Why do people check their phones so often? Because it’s an ESCAPE from whatever they’re doing that’s NOT fulfilling enough.


And here’s a funny thing… when I ask someone - hey, what are you doing this weekend? Or what are you doing for the holiday? Many people feel uneasy if they say “I don’t have anything”. Because as a society, we put busyness on a pedestal.

It’s valuable. It makes you look good. You put-in the hours… Yeah! And we attach this stigma to “doing nothing”, to just having free time for ourselves.


So I want to share a few things that help me take control of time. 


Most of us actually have more time than we think. For example, what do you do when you commute to work? What do you fill that time with? How about the vacation days you earned at work, but you didn’t take? 

So many people don’t take the full amount of vacation they have. Which is crazy! The point is there are more gaps of time in our lives than we recognize. So try to find them. And think - what you do with this time? And can you do something else instead?


What causes this time-pressure induced anxiety so many people are feeling is this disconnect between your brain and your body where your brain is running at 100 miles an hour - I’ll do this and do that… and in 10 minutes it has concocted a whole new reality for you, but your body just started doing the first task along the way.

And you’re brain already feels you’re behind. So taking a moment to get centered after you finish a task, allows you to sync up your brain.. and your body.. so they are working together. 


And the most helpful exercise I do periodically that truly moves the needle in my life when it comes to owning my own time is making a not-to-do list. 


You’re so busy running and chasing things. But what are the things that you spend time on... that don’t serve your goals - whatever your goals are - taking care of yourself, personal growth, financial security, empowerment, family, faith, etc? 


Here’s a little story… Mom one day sees the gardener cutting the grass at my house… and she made a comment - you’re a big shot, huh. I said, no mom, it’s not that. It’s because I have my priorities straight. I want to make an impact on the...

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Skincare Secrets - #31 This ingredient is better than retinol
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09/13/19 • 8 min

If you used retinol, which is a vitamin A derivative, before, you have probably experienced the common side effects of it. Like redness, irritation, or even peeling skin.

 

It’s ok to have a love hate relationship with Retinol. It is meant to treat everything from acne to fine lines and hyperpigmentation. But what if I told you there is a next gen vitamin A derivative that offers the same benefits without the side effects?

 

It exists! And it’s called Granactive Retinoid.


Welcome to another episode of Skincare Secrets… 


Before I tell you all about this super skin-friendly ingredient, I want to tell you a short story of how I came across Granactive Retinoid and why I started looking for a retinol alternative…


I started formulating a retinol serum for Open Formula 18 months ago. Retinol is such a classic that I thought we could not start a line of clinical skincare without it. But after a dozen iteration, I was faced with a dilemma. My approach to formulating skincare is to push the concentrations of the functional ingredients as high as I can safely so they can actually deliver benefits. And not just make marketing claims to sell stuff. 


As we kept increasing the concentration of retinol in this serum, I was giving it to my core group of skincare enthusiasts to try it out. And when we went beyond a certain concentration, which wasn't very high number of people who noticed irritation significantly increased. It’s “expected” because that’s how retinol works - through inflammation actually. But it’s not a great experience. And yes, you can start low, and gradually build up a tolerance. But you know patience is in short supply nowadays. 


And not to bore you with skincare formulation too much… but retinol is not very stable and when exposed to light, it oxidizes easily. So it goes bad. And can actually hurt your skin instead of helping it.


So I started searching for alternatives. And that’s how Granactive Retinoid actually popped on my radar.

 

Before we get to it, let’s talk about why people love retinol. It is commonly used in anti-aging formulas because it can increase skin cell activity to stimulate collagen and increase exfoliation. These are essential in the process of fighting and reversing the signs of aging.

 

What do they hate about retinol? The side effects. You must start in low concentrations to allow your skin to get used to it. And you don’t know what your skin’s reaction is going to be.

Because the nature of retinol is to cause inflammation in order to speed up the exfoliation process to get rid of dead skin cells. So you can see flaking, redness, irritation. You can feel a stinging sensation that can last long after your original application. Retinol is suggested for nighttime use because it can make your skin extremely sun sensitive. 

 

With all these side effects, why would we still use retinol? Because it works. I don’t know of another cosmetic ingredient that has more research published on it documenting its efficacy. It can be used to effectively treat things like acne, wrinkles, and dark spots. But the side effects...

 

Lucky for us, science and skincare technology keeps improving. Science is taking ingredients and finding ways to make them better and limit the negative effects they can have on our skin. 

 

One of those ingredients is Granactive Retinol, think of it as a cousin to retinol. Scientifically speaking, it belongs to a group of chemical compounds that contain natural and synthetic derivatives of Vitamin A. It is a cosmetic grade ester of all-trans retinoic acid. 

 

Granactive retinol is a more advanced retinoid alternative. Most retinoids need to be broken down over and over into more active forms before they start signaling the skin cells to carry out their anti-aging duties. Granactive Retinoid doesn’t need to be broken down to become active.

It binds with retinoid receptors which turn on and off different cell functions. These functions speed up the exfoliation process of forcing dead skin cells to be removed and stimulation of skin proteins such as collagen and keratin to make the skin plump and firm. All of this with no to minimal side effects!

 

But what results can you expect with Granactive Retinol?


It has been found to fill and soften fine lines and wrinkles. It can increase skin elasticity for firmer and smoother skin. It helps to lighten dark spots for a more even skin tone. It helps to keep the skin clear and healthy. It has been dermatologically tested and found to be less irritating than retinol.


Granactive Retinoid helps renew skin plumpness. It stimulates skin cell proliferation, which helps restore thickness to skin that has become thinner over time. It also promotes cell turnover, which translates into improves skin ...

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Skincare Secrets - #30 Base tan to prevent sunburn is BS
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09/10/19 • 3 min

Another skincare myth we’re going to expose today is that getting a base tan will help your skin not burn as easily. Let me drop a big truth bomb here… tanning damages skin cells and there is no such thing as a healthy, safe tan. 


But tanned skin is attractive and a sign of good health, right?! In reality it damages and ages your skin and increases your risk of skin cancer. That risk goes up even higher if the tan started out as a sunburn. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, a single blistering sunburn can double a person’s lifetime risk of melanoma, the most deadly form of skin cancer. 

Sorry to ruin it for you if you love tanning out on the beach...


In a 2017 Harvard study, 5 million people in the United States were treated for skin cancer that year. And this number doubled from 10 years ago and still continue to rise today. 


And if you’re thinking tanning beds… the argument that they do not cause skin damage or skin cancer is not true either. UVA radiation from tanning beds is 12x stronger than that coming from the sun. So it lead to more harmful skin damage than going to the beach. Not to mention the UVA is responsible for most of the aging of the skin because UVA rays penetrate the skincare deeper. So in short, tanning beds age your skin 12x faster than being out in the sun. And you know UVA exposure is responsible for 80% of the aging of the sun overall. So if you just pay attention of that, you will enjoy healthy good looking skin in the years to come. 


But it’s not all lost if you want that bronzy beach tan without damaging your skin or increasing your risk for skin cancer. Self-tanners are the safest way to get it. Sunless tanning lotions, sprays, or gels, work by temporarily adding color to the top layer of skin. If you go that route, consider exfoliating with a scrub in the shower before applying a self-tanner… this will get rid of any dead skin cells so you can get an even application. 


These products are better options to protect yourself than a base tan if you are worried about a sunburn. And follow the basics about sun protection as much as you can. Stay out of the sun when it is strongest from 10am to 3pm. Apply a broad spectrum SPF of 30 or more. If you’re out, every 2-3 hours. And even more often if you’ve been sweating, swimming, or wiping your skin with a towel. Long-sleeved shirts, wide-brimmed hats, long pants also offer really good protection. And remember that you can still get a sunburn even on cloudy days. So don’t ignore the sun just because you can’t see it.


And for all the tan lovers… I believe that your natural skin color is beautiful. And there is no real need to change it.


That’s all for today. See you in the next one. Click the subscribe button so you get notifications of future episodes.

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Skincare Secrets - #113 Skincare Basics: What is an Exfoliator?
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09/30/20 • 6 min

Your skin sheds 30,000 to 40,000 dead cells hourly. Just imagine the build up in your pores when they mix with sebum, makeup and impurities. What happens when you don’t exfoliate to get rid of those dead skin cells? Dull skin. Break outs. Pimples and more! So, what is an exfoliator and what does it do?  

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Skincare Secrets - #96 Clean Beauty vs Clinical Skincare
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06/03/20 • 8 min

Is the ‘clean beauty’ movement just trendy hype? And is ‘clean’ skincare really better than clinical skincare? Tune in and find out!


Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com


Reach out at [email protected] or on Instagram @damyannikolov

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Skincare Secrets - #98 Skin pH: What is it and Why it Matters
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06/19/20 • 9 min

Well, when it comes to skincare, pH can make or break a product. More importantly, your skin pH can make or break your skin. That sounds serious because it is serious. 


Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com


Reach out at [email protected] or on Instagram @damyannikolov


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Skincare Secrets - #97 What is Skin Purging?
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06/10/20 • 7 min

Is my skin purging or breaking out? Let’s talk about how you can tell the difference.


Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com


Reach out at [email protected] or on Instagram @damyannikolov

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Skincare Secrets - #93 Benefits of Peptides for the Skin
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05/13/20 • 6 min

Peptides are a must have for your skincare routine. But what, exactly, are they? Let's talk about it!


Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com


Reach out at [email protected] or on Instagram @damyannikolov

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Skincare Secrets - #39 Skin benefits of Argan Oil
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10/10/19 • 5 min

Today I wanted to talk to you about Argan oil. And show you what researchers say it can do for your skin. I am a big fan of oils for your skin. You know over the years, your skin naturally loses moisture and oils are a great way to keep the skin looking fresh. Argan oil actually can actually do a lot more. We’ll find out right now. 

Welcome to another episode of Skincare Secrets…

I’m actually excited to talk to you about argan oil. Argan oil has been a staple in Morocco for centuries as a cooking ingredient for it’s subtle, nutty flavor. It comes from the kernels of the fruit on the argan tree. But it’s not only been used for cooking, it has a lot of health benefits, especially for the skin. Let’s take a look at some of them. 

Argan oil is packed with omega 6 fatty acids which is considered to be a healthy fat and good for heart health. These fatty acids help with the skin's natural oil barrier and keep skin hydrated, plumper, and younger looking.

Argan oil also has a lot of vitamin E, which is needed for healthy skin, hair and eyes. Argan oil also contains CoQ10, melatonin, and plant sterols. All fighting against skin-damaging free-radicals - whether we get them from the sun, pollution, drinking, smoking or elsewhere. 

This was documented in a 2013 study found that the antioxidants in argan oil protected the skin against free radical damage caused by the sun. This can actually help you with sunburns and those dark spots nobody likes.  

Which is great. Argan oil is actually probably best known as a moisturizer. And there is a good reason for that. That is why argan oil can be found in a lot of lotions, soaps, and hair conditioners. I actually prefer using it pure. Just straight up 100% argan oil. In a 2014 study published in Menopause Review, applying argan oil improved the moisture of the skin in women after menopause.

It may, emphasis on may, help treat acne. Argan oil’s antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds may lower redness and irritation of the skin caused by acne. There is some evidence that applying argan oil on a regular basis can reduce oil production and over all skin oiliness. And we know that excess oil on your skin can be a trigger for acne. 

In addition to its antioxidant properties and ability to heal and protect the skin, argan oil also has both antibacterial and antifungal properties. So it can treat and even prevent bacterial and fungal skin infections. That is why it is good for skin conditions like rosacea, and psoriasis. 

Argan oil has long been used as an anti-aging ingredient. There was not a lot of scientific data to back this up, but a 2015 study published in Clinical Interventions in Aging found that after 60 days of everyday application, the skin had visible improvement of elasticity and firmness. Because it can improve skin elasticity, argan oil helps prevent and reduce the appearance of  lines, wrinkles and stretch marks. 

Now, for those who haven’t tried it… it’s a thicker oil if you use it 100% pure. So it takes a little longer to absorb than other oils. It also has an earthy smell. It is not one of those flowery-smelling oils you’d love the smell of. But it’s not bad by any means. 

To sum up argan oil, this powerful ingredient has many skin benefits for everyone, whether you have problem skin.. or aging skin… or just want to lock in some extra moisture. So give it a shot. 

That’s all for now...see you in the next one...

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Skincare Secrets - #16 To AHA or BHA...that is the question!
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07/17/19 • 17 min

---Transcript---

To AHA or BHA.. that is the question! And not by Shakespare, but by you the listeners. So today, we’ll talk about acids. They have been long associated with strong, aggressive chemical peels. Especially alpha and beta hydroxy acids. Results have often shown red, flaky skin that requires days of healing.   


But as skincare technology has evolved, so has the safety and effectiveness of these acids.


Let’s dive in and see what acids can for you and how you should use them. 


The main purpose of acids is to exfoliate. So why is it important to use acids to exfoliate our skin? 


Because if you don’t, dead skin build up on the surface of your face and it can lead to premature aging, acne, dark spots, and uneven skin tone and texture. 


Scientists have estimated that over 24 hours, you lose almost a million skin cells. But even though they die, they still remain on the skin surface. And if not exfoliated or washed away, they mix with sebum, makeup, dirt etc to clog pores and cause milia, acne, and other problems


Human skin cells can live for about 2-4 weeks, then they die and naturally shed. This entire process can slow down significantly with age. When you exfoliate and get rid of the top layer of dead skin cells, fresh new skin that looks much better shows on the surface. If you’ve used pumice on your feet, you’ve seen the results. You get the same effect on the face when using acids, although not as dramatic of course. And besides the immediate effect, more importantly you keep the skin regeneration process going. That is why exfoliating the skin is an essential part of any skincare routine. 


But you might be wondering where to start? Which acid is right for my skin? 


Let's go over the benefits of acids which include: smoothing skin texture, brightening dark spots, unclogging pores, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 


Now, let’s go over the acids themselves. 


Alpha Hydroxy Acids have been used for more than 40 years for the treatment of acne, scarring, dark spots, dryness, and wrinkles. 


AHA’s are molecules that dissolve in water which allows them to penetrate the top layer of skin very rapidly. AHA’s work by forcing exfoliation through overloading the top layer of skin cells causing them basically to die and shed away. 


Lower concentrations of AHA’s are best for smoothing skin texture and preventing blackheads. Higher concentrations increase exfoliation of dead skin cells and stimulate collagen to fight fine lines and wrinkles. 


You certainly have heard of the most common alpha hydroxy acids. By the way people also call them “fruit acids” because most are naturally found in fruits:


Glycolic Acid...which can be found in sugarcane extract... it is the most widely used AHA. 

It is effective on mild acne and dark spots from sun damage. Glycolic acid studies were done at concentrations of 20-70% where it’s shown to be effective. The higher the concentration and the lower the pH level, the more peeling you get. 


But keep in mind effectiveness can be achieved by using it less frequent at high concentrations. That’s the acid peels you do when you see an esthetician. Or you can get results by frequently using lower dosage. With products you use at home. It really depends on what you want to do. I’m personally always in favor of the second method. Same with exercise, I’d rather do something every day even if it’s 15 minutes than workout twice a week for an hour.


Next, Lactic Acid...it’s considered to be the mildest AHA...it can be found in sour milk, tomato juice, beer, and wine. It will gently exfoliate really well dry, dehydrated, and sensitized skin. A clinical study published in the Journal of American Academy of Dermatology tested it at 12%. Participants used it  twice daily for 3 months. It resulted in better skin firmness and improvement in the appearance of lines and wrinkles. I am a big fan of lactic. It’s great to start with if you’re thinking about acids. And also great for daily use.


And some of the more exotic ones…


Tartaric Acid...is found in grapes and tamarind. It is also a great antioxidant and estheticians like it for treating sun damage and acne.


Malic Acid...derived from apples and pears, this acid can moisturize the skin in addition to exfoliating it.


Mandelic Acid...is derived from almonds. It is great for sensitive skin types because it does not penetrate the skin as deeply decreasing the chance of irritation. 


Now moving to our second category...beta hydroxy acid. You will really only find one lone acid that makes up this category...that is salicylic acid. 


Sa...

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