#16 To AHA or BHA...that is the question!

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To AHA or BHA.. that is the question! And not by Shakespare, but by you the listeners. So today, we’ll talk about acids. They have been long associated with strong, aggressive chemical peels. Especially alpha and beta hydroxy acids. Results have often shown red, flaky skin that requires days of healing.   

But as skincare technology has evolved, so has the safety and effectiveness of these acids.

Let’s dive in and see what acids can for you and how you should use them. 

The main purpose of acids is to exfoliate. So why is it important to use acids to exfoliate our skin? 

Because if you don’t, dead skin build up on the surface of your face and it can lead to premature aging, acne, dark spots, and uneven skin tone and texture. 

Scientists have estimated that over 24 hours, you lose almost a million skin cells. But even though they die, they still remain on the skin surface. And if not exfoliated or washed away, they mix with sebum, makeup, dirt etc to clog pores and cause milia, acne, and other problems

Human skin cells can live for about 2-4 weeks, then they die and naturally shed. This entire process can slow down significantly with age. When you exfoliate and get rid of the top layer of dead skin cells, fresh new skin that looks much better shows on the surface. If you’ve used pumice on your feet, you’ve seen the results. You get the same effect on the face when using acids, although not as dramatic of course. And besides the immediate effect, more importantly you keep the skin regeneration process going. That is why exfoliating the skin is an essential part of any skincare routine. 

But you might be wondering where to start? Which acid is right for my skin? 

Let's go over the benefits of acids which include: smoothing skin texture, brightening dark spots, unclogging pores, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 

Now, let’s go over the acids themselves. 

Alpha Hydroxy Acids have been used for more than 40 years for the treatment of acne, scarring, dark spots, dryness, and wrinkles. 

AHA’s are molecules that dissolve in water which allows them to penetrate the top layer of skin very rapidly. AHA’s work by forcing exfoliation through overloading the top layer of skin cells causing them basically to die and shed away. 

Lower concentrations of AHA’s are best for smoothing skin texture and preventing blackheads. Higher concentrations increase exfoliation of dead skin cells and stimulate collagen to fight fine lines and wrinkles. 

You certainly have heard of the most common alpha hydroxy acids. By the way people also call them “fruit acids” because most are naturally found in fruits:

Glycolic Acid...which can be found in sugarcane extract... it is the most widely used AHA. 

It is effective on mild acne and dark spots from sun damage. Glycolic acid studies were done at concentrations of 20-70% where it’s shown to be effective. The higher the concentration and the lower the pH level, the more peeling you get. 

But keep in mind effectiveness can be achieved by using it less frequent at high concentrations. That’s the acid peels you do when you see an esthetician. Or you can get results by frequently using lower dosage. With products you use at home. It really depends on what you want to do. I’m personally always in favor of the second method. Same with exercise, I’d rather do something every day even if it’s 15 minutes than workout twice a week for an hour.

Next, Lactic Acid...it’s considered to be the mildest AHA...it can be found in sour milk, tomato juice, beer, and wine. It will gently exfoliate really well dry, dehydrated, and sensitized skin. A clinical study published in the Journal of American Academy of Dermatology tested it at 12%. Participants used it  twice daily for 3 months. It resulted in better skin firmness and improvement in the appearance of lines and wrinkles. I am a big fan of lactic. It’s great to start with if you’re thinking about acids. And also great for daily use.

And some of the more exotic ones…

Tartaric Acid...is found in grapes and tamarind. It is also a great antioxidant and estheticians like it for treating sun damage and acne.

Malic Acid...derived from apples and pears, this acid can moisturize the skin in addition to exfoliating it.

Mandelic Acid...is derived from almonds. It is great for sensitive skin types because it does not penetrate the skin as deeply decreasing the chance of irritation. 

Now moving to our second category...beta hydroxy acid. You will really only find one lone acid that makes up this category...that is salicylic acid. 

Sa...