6. Jules Wièse, “Bracelet,” about 1855

02/03/17 • 2 min

In each of the linked gold medallions that compose this bracelet, finely worked silver busts emerge from emerald-green engraved enamel fields. Jules Wièse, the maker of this bracelet, drew inspiration from early Italian Renaissance sculptural busts. Wièse began his career as goldsmith for François-Désiré Froment-Meurice.

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7. Eugène Fontenay for Fontana et Cie, “Necklace,” about 1865

This necklace shows fine workmanship in the techniques of filigree (intricate patterns made from thin strands of metal) and hand-embossing (hammering out a design in relief). At the 1867 Universal Exposition in Paris, Eugène Fontenay won praise for Neo-Greek jewelry like this. In admiring and emulating the remarkable skill of ancient goldsmiths, Fontenay helped initiate the 19th-century archeological style.

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5. Artist Unknown, France, “Amethyst Parure (Jewelry Set),” 1820–1830

The restored monarchy and its court could more easily afford semi-precious stones, such as these amethysts imported from Brazil, than the much costlier rubies, emeralds, or diamonds. The creator of this jewelry set placed amethysts within wide frames of embossed and delicately chiseled gold, which he treated with economical milled edges.