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The Testpiece Podcast - #142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers

#142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers

02/17/25 • 107 min

The Testpiece Podcast

Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance.

This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy.

Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers.

Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode.

SHOW NOTES:

Support the show

Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE

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Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance.

This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy.

Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers.

Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode.

SHOW NOTES:

Support the show

Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Previous Episode

undefined - #141 BONUS [Austin Hoyt] — The V18 Proj Everyone Knows About, Why Lucid Dreaming Is V15 Not V16, and The Upcoming V16 Next To Devilution

#141 BONUS [Austin Hoyt] — The V18 Proj Everyone Knows About, Why Lucid Dreaming Is V15 Not V16, and The Upcoming V16 Next To Devilution

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future.

Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18.

We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!

Don’t miss Episode #140 for context!

SHOW NOTES:

Support the show

Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Next Episode

undefined - #143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever

#143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever

Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt!

That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there.

This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen!

If you loved Simon as much as we do, we’ve got great news... you can get trained by him through his company Bushido Climbing!

SHOW NOTES:

Support the show

Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE

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