The Testpiece Podcast
Testpiece
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.
Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
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Top 10 The Testpiece Podcast Episodes
Goodpods has curated a list of the 10 best The Testpiece Podcast episodes, ranked by the number of listens and likes each episode have garnered from our listeners. If you are listening to The Testpiece Podcast for the first time, there's no better place to start than with one of these standout episodes. If you are a fan of the show, vote for your favorite The Testpiece Podcast episode by adding your comments to the episode page.
Melina Costanza is an 8x US National Champion. Sometimes as a youth, sometimes as a collegiate, sometimes in Open, sometimes in bouldering, sometimes in lead, sometimes both. Yes, last year at Open Nationals (2023) she won both Bouldering and Lead. She is set to compete in the 2024 Open Nationals coming up in a week, so after you listen to this podcast make sure to mark your calendars for October 14th and 15th and cheer her on!
In this podcast, Melina shares her extremely deep dive into mental training and how she translates that to her incredible performances in competition. It is an absolute masterclass on this topic that cannot be missed.
She also talks about her views on indoor vs outdoor climbing and how that’s recently changed and why.
Finally, Melina covers a sensitive, but important, topic. Eating as an elite athlete. Melina struggled with an eating disorder at one point and suffered a serious injury as a result. She has returned to sport since then, and done so successfully (see above, Nationals 2023 double gold). Melina shares how to best frame eating when you are an athlete.
Because let’s face it, weight management will always be part of the equation in sports. But it needs to be done the right way. It is not a simple black and white topic, even though media often makes it out to be, which is a disservice to those trying to figure out their path forward. Melina is making a huge contribution to the community by sharing how she navigates the nuances so that she can perform at her best in a sustainable way.
SHOW NOTES:
- Melina's Instagram
- Melina’s Favorite Hype Song, Runnin
- Melina’s Favorite Chill Songs, Taylor Swift
- Day One Journaling App
- Alex Johnson’s Testpiece Podcast Episode
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance.
This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy.
Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers.
Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode.
SHOW NOTES:
- Rob Hunter’s Instagram
- Tyler Nelson’s Instagram
- Rob’s Business, My Therapy Physio
- Tyler’s Company, Camp 4 Human Performance
- Tyler’s YouTube Channel
- Tyler’s Demonstration Of Overcoming Isometrics
- Squeezing The Lemon / Orange Demonstration
- Tyler’s Demonstration Of “Finger Curling”
- Tyler’s Previous Testpiece Episode, #114
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
#132 BONUS [Nathaniel Coleman] — V17 Grading Thoughts, Reflections On Naming, and What He Remembers Most From Projecting
The Testpiece Podcast
01/03/25 • 15 min
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #131 was finished. Nathaniel Coleman shares a bit more about his thoughts on V17 grades, training while he projected “No One Mourns The Wicked”, and what the name truly means.
We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!
Don’t miss Episode #131 for context, and make sure you watch the “No One Mourns The Wicked, V17” video on Mellow!
SHOW NOTES:
- Nathaniel Coleman’s Instagram
- No One Mourns The Wicked, V17 FA, Nathaniel Coleman on Mellow
- Nathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #63:
- Nathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #131
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
#105 Tim Kang — Going All In, The Most Important Moments for Growth, Embracing What Others Won’t, and The Difference Between Good and Great
The Testpiece Podcast
07/01/24 • 127 min
Tim Kang is a frequent guest on the podcast, but now you get to hear him do a more typical interview.
Tim is a professional climber and coach that has competed at the World Cup level, won a Psicobloc competition, climbed v14 and 5.14d, but he is best known for his daring sends of the wildest highballs in Bishop which culminated in the popular film Focus.
Tune in to hear Tim’s arc as a climber, from his early days when he struggled to keep up with everyone else, to his success in high pressure competitions and on death defying hard boulders.
SHOW NOTES:
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
If you watched the Paris Olympics then you remember Hamish McArthur’s stand out performance to secure an incredible 5th place finish.
Hamish had already stood atop World Cup podiums and won Youth Worlds, but his Olympic showing was a clear level up.
In this episode Hamish shares what changed for him in the year leading up to the Olympics and how it ultimately led him to having one of the best competitions in his life.
Don’t miss this incredibly inspiring and thought provoking chat with the inimitable, Hamish McArthur!
SHOW NOTES:
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
This is a follow-up episode to the last Melina Costanza podcast, #119. That episode was one of the fan favorites, josh favorites, and even favorites of other professional climbers. Go listen to that one first, because it was amazing and will set the stage for this follow-up episode.
It’s only been a month since Melina last came on, but in that month she won US Nationals, both in Lead and Bouldering, and did so for the second year in a row. Yes, in 2023 she won Lead and Bouldering and in 2024 she AGAIN won Lead and Bouldering! On top of that she won multiple high level local comps this month and found the time to go outside and do a slew of double digit boulders. One of which was a near flash of a V13 (she still sent 2nd go)!
Melina is incredibly articulate and insightful on the intricacies of performing at the highest level of competition. In the last episode she detailed her training leading into Nationals, and since she had such a stellar performance we wanted to sit down and explore exactly how that training turned into perfect execution.
Don’t miss this one... These two pods together are not just a 2x, it’s squared. (Ya, that's a lame joke, but it's true.)
SHOW NOTES:
- Melina Costanza’s Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/melinacostanza/
- Melina’s previous Testpiece Podcast, #119
- 2024 Double Gold Champ
- V13 Second Go
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
#101 Dave Burleson — How To Be A Pro Climber, What Pro’s Actually Earn, The Tension Between Passion And Professionalism, and Contract Negotiation 101
The Testpiece Podcast
06/03/24 • 151 min
Dave Burleson is one of the top agents for professional climbers. He's part of Reppa Athlete Managment that represents athletes like Sean Bailey, Nathaniel Coleman, Nina Williams, Jesse Grupper... the list goes on, but all of them have been on the podcast so we put them here first!
Before being an agent, Dave worked at the iconic brands Petzl and The North Face as an athlete coordinator / manager. So that means Dave has been on both sides of the table, representing brands who sponsor athletes and now representing the athletes themselves.
Dave shares with us the REAL side of what it takes to be a pro, what pro’s actually earn, and the tips on how to become a professional climber.
He has also been involved in producing famous films like Alphane, Defying Gravity, and Tropical Lines. He’s been involved with too many to list, so we just picked some recent ones! If it has to do with TNF and Mellow, it’s a good guess that Dave had a hand in it.
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
We love board climbing. And if you do too, or even if you are just board curious, this episode it for you. The history of boards, board training, board ethics, board best practices, the future of boards. BOARDS!!
This was a special in person recording in Colorado with part of the Tension Climbing crew (Will Anglin, Michael Rosato, and Quinn Spadafora). This episode was recorded the day after Josh and Tim did a YouTube video with Tension, “Comparing the Boards: Testpiece Comes to Tension”. You need to watch that video ASAP!!
Tension and Testpiece also collaborated on a special giveaway. You can win a Testpiece T-Shirt and a Tension training tool of your choice by winning. BONUS — the Tension training tool will have the Testpiece logo on it as well!
All you have to do is climb an amazing climbs on the TB2 and post them to Instagram, tagging @tensionclimbing and @testpiececlimbing.
The climbs are:
- “Testpiece Mirror” @ 45 (both mirrored versions), on the mirrored layout of the 12x12 wall.
- “Testpiece Spray” @ 45 on the spray wall layout of the 12x12 wall.
- Or ANY of your favorite Classics on and TB2 layout. You must post in your comments why it’s your favorite to enter the raffle.
- Uncut footy only 😇
SHOW NOTES:
- Tension and Testpiece YouTube Video
- Undeniable Vibes
- Tension Shoe Spray
- EGODEATH Video
- Tension Board 2
- Mimic holds
- Bubble Wrap Project at CATS
- Josh’s Board Account (@thebarnboard)
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
#37 -- Sport Climbing Tips, Tricks, & Tactics
The Testpiece Podcast
03/06/23 • 107 min
Tim and Josh go deep on how to sport climb at a high level. They address breathing on the wall, understanding resting, dealing with fear, how to do hard bouldery moves while tied in, and lots more.
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
#41 -- Sloper Love
The Testpiece Podcast
04/10/23 • 78 min
Tim and Josh express their love of slopers and deconstruct the techniques around how to best use them.
Slopers can stump a lot of newer, intermediate, and even advanced climbers, but they are the key to unlocking next level climbing technique.
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
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FAQ
How many episodes does The Testpiece Podcast have?
The Testpiece Podcast currently has 153 episodes available.
What topics does The Testpiece Podcast cover?
The podcast is about Climbing, Podcasts, Sports and Coaching.
What is the most popular episode on The Testpiece Podcast?
The episode title '#94 T&J — How To Approach EVERY Climb, New Era Of Climbing Media, Double Clutching Outside, New Patreon Offering, Warm-Up Projects, Un-Campusing and Why Trying Hard Isn’t Enough' is the most popular.
What is the average episode length on The Testpiece Podcast?
The average episode length on The Testpiece Podcast is 107 minutes.
How often are episodes of The Testpiece Podcast released?
Episodes of The Testpiece Podcast are typically released every 7 days.
When was the first episode of The Testpiece Podcast?
The first episode of The Testpiece Podcast was released on Feb 4, 2022.
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