E41 Enabling Success: The Balance of Parenting an Athlete

11/25/24 • 35 min

In this episode Kyra brings on her parents once again to talk about what they do to support her at competitions and how they supported her dream of becoming a professional climber. Currently being in Santiago at the Panamerican Championships, they talk about specifics around supporting Kyra while at an event. Later, Tom, Kyra’s dad provides some insight into his theory of providing guardrails but casting a wide net of possibilities for your kid, while Cathy, Kyra’s mom, shares some of her own upbringing that led to her unwavering support and belief in what her kids were capable of.

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E40 Overcoming Injuries, Finding Mastery, and Common Training Mistakes

In this episode, Kyra Condie and guest Dan Beall use Dan's experience with overcoming catastrophic injuries to give some advice when facing adversity in sport. They talk about Dan's shoulder dislocation and accompanying nerve damage that left him without a clear path to recovery and how he dealt with that, both mentally and physically. They also explore the nuances of confidence versus mastery, and how a delicate balance of the two can lead to an enjoyable experience for some (not all) on highball boulders, as well as how to confront fear in a safe and productive way. They finish by talking about the most common training plan mistakes Dan sees in his coaching and provide some tips to maximize your learning potential during each climbing session.

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E42 Training Tips and Youth Team Takeaways

In this episode, Kyra and Allison dive into listener questions from their Patreon, covering everything from building finger strength and improving crimp endurance to valuable lessons learned from their youth competition days. The conversation meanders through a variety of related topics, including when to consult a PT—whether for an injury or strength training, current trends in climbing science, and how climbing parents can stay engaged and advocate for safe, inclusive environments within youth teams.