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XChateau Wine Podcast - Library Release - Getting Inside Bordeaux w/ Jane Anson, janeanson.com

Library Release - Getting Inside Bordeaux w/ Jane Anson, janeanson.com

06/23/23 • 57 min

XChateau Wine Podcast

Accidentally filling the big shoes of Michael Broadbent and Steven Spurrier, Jane Anson, wine critic, author of Inside Bordeaux, founder of janeanson.com, and former Bordeaux correspondent for Decanter for nearly 20 years, is one of the world's foremost experts on the wines, history, and region of Bordeaux. Having lived in Bordeaux since 2003, Jane shares her deep insights into how Bordeaux became as famous as it is, how the systems of La Place de Bordeaux and En Primeur work, and the complex terroir of the region. She gives us insight into the content of janeanson.com and how it will be a unique look into Bordeaux, focusing on the drinkability of the wines and many of the unique features to be released.


Detailed Show Notes:

Bordeaux Overview

  • A port city far enough inland to be a safe port
  • 12th century - duchy of the English crown, wines were sold in the London market
  • The system of chateaux, merchants, and negociants was built for export
  • Terroir is very complex (which may be why it's not talked about much), e.g., of the 61 wines in the 1855 Medoc classification, all of them are on 2 specific gravel terraces (#3 & 4) of the 6 terraces of the Medoc
  • Mostly clay underneath with gravel on top
  • Lots of micro terroirs
  • St Emilion - has pure limestone, clay, and gravel

Issues that have hurt Bordeaux

  • Every vintage is not great, though Bordelais often say that
  • Frustrate people based on the prices they ask (e.g., 2009/2010 vintages - many people who bought lost money)

Advantages of La Place de Bordeaux

  • Business to business, sell to merchants that sell to consumers
  • Virtual marketplace - enables access to 10,000 clients globally
  • Includes chateaux, brokers, and negociants
  • Sells wine into every level of the food chain - has specialists for on-trade, off-trade, hotels, corner shops, supermarkets, etc.
  • It doesn't build your brand but makes sure it gets everywhere
  • Good at giving the illusion of scarcity
  • Can use La Place for specific markets - La Place has expertise in the Asian markets (e.g., China, Vietnam, Japan)

Disadvantages of La Place de Bordeaux

  • Creates a very competitive environment - low-end wines compete with each other
  • It protects Bordeaux well, and merchants need to buy in bad years to get allocations in good years
  • No direct contact with consumers for wineries
  • Less effective for small guys that aren't established brands

Non-Bordeaux wines selling on La Place

  • Gone from nothing to 60 wines 5 years ago to 90 wines in 2021
  • Provides access to global markets - shows wines next to the great wines of Bordeaux
  • Opus One - the 2nd non-Bordeaux wine on La Place (after Almaviva), has sold wines since 2004 and opened an office in Bordeaux.
  • Barriers to joining La Place - need enough volume to get everywhere, need to do your own brand-building work, and meet customers
  • The increase in overseas wines has hurt smaller Bordeaux estates -> negociants have limited budgets and drop them

En Primeur

  • From the early 1980s, Parker injected excitement into the En Primeur system
  • People used to make money, but now they are often better off waiting until wines are in bottle with certain exceptions (e.g., tiny production Pomerols)
  • No longer has the same sense of urgency
  • Tranche system - release a small amount of wine at one price, then release more later at higher prices
  • non-Bordeaux wines price more consistently than Bordeaux wines
  • Latour dropping out of en primeur, they wanted to store wines and release them when best for consumers
  • Chateau Palmer - sells 50% en primeur, 50% 10 years later
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Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

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Accidentally filling the big shoes of Michael Broadbent and Steven Spurrier, Jane Anson, wine critic, author of Inside Bordeaux, founder of janeanson.com, and former Bordeaux correspondent for Decanter for nearly 20 years, is one of the world's foremost experts on the wines, history, and region of Bordeaux. Having lived in Bordeaux since 2003, Jane shares her deep insights into how Bordeaux became as famous as it is, how the systems of La Place de Bordeaux and En Primeur work, and the complex terroir of the region. She gives us insight into the content of janeanson.com and how it will be a unique look into Bordeaux, focusing on the drinkability of the wines and many of the unique features to be released.


Detailed Show Notes:

Bordeaux Overview

  • A port city far enough inland to be a safe port
  • 12th century - duchy of the English crown, wines were sold in the London market
  • The system of chateaux, merchants, and negociants was built for export
  • Terroir is very complex (which may be why it's not talked about much), e.g., of the 61 wines in the 1855 Medoc classification, all of them are on 2 specific gravel terraces (#3 & 4) of the 6 terraces of the Medoc
  • Mostly clay underneath with gravel on top
  • Lots of micro terroirs
  • St Emilion - has pure limestone, clay, and gravel

Issues that have hurt Bordeaux

  • Every vintage is not great, though Bordelais often say that
  • Frustrate people based on the prices they ask (e.g., 2009/2010 vintages - many people who bought lost money)

Advantages of La Place de Bordeaux

  • Business to business, sell to merchants that sell to consumers
  • Virtual marketplace - enables access to 10,000 clients globally
  • Includes chateaux, brokers, and negociants
  • Sells wine into every level of the food chain - has specialists for on-trade, off-trade, hotels, corner shops, supermarkets, etc.
  • It doesn't build your brand but makes sure it gets everywhere
  • Good at giving the illusion of scarcity
  • Can use La Place for specific markets - La Place has expertise in the Asian markets (e.g., China, Vietnam, Japan)

Disadvantages of La Place de Bordeaux

  • Creates a very competitive environment - low-end wines compete with each other
  • It protects Bordeaux well, and merchants need to buy in bad years to get allocations in good years
  • No direct contact with consumers for wineries
  • Less effective for small guys that aren't established brands

Non-Bordeaux wines selling on La Place

  • Gone from nothing to 60 wines 5 years ago to 90 wines in 2021
  • Provides access to global markets - shows wines next to the great wines of Bordeaux
  • Opus One - the 2nd non-Bordeaux wine on La Place (after Almaviva), has sold wines since 2004 and opened an office in Bordeaux.
  • Barriers to joining La Place - need enough volume to get everywhere, need to do your own brand-building work, and meet customers
  • The increase in overseas wines has hurt smaller Bordeaux estates -> negociants have limited budgets and drop them

En Primeur

  • From the early 1980s, Parker injected excitement into the En Primeur system
  • People used to make money, but now they are often better off waiting until wines are in bottle with certain exceptions (e.g., tiny production Pomerols)
  • No longer has the same sense of urgency
  • Tranche system - release a small amount of wine at one price, then release more later at higher prices
  • non-Bordeaux wines price more consistently than Bordeaux wines
  • Latour dropping out of en primeur, they wanted to store wines and release them when best for consumers
  • Chateau Palmer - sells 50% en primeur, 50% 10 years later
Get access to library episodes

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Previous Episode

undefined - State of the Wine Collector w/ John Jackson, Dallas

State of the Wine Collector w/ John Jackson, Dallas

Checking in on how collectors are weathering current economic conditions, John Jackson (IG: attorneysomm; YouTube: attorneysomm) provides insight into the Dallas, Texas wine market. From their wine clubs to how collectors learn about new wines and buy them, John delivers deep insight into the Dallas market as of May 2023. John also details some of his journey on social media with Instagram and YouTube.


Detailed Show Notes:

John’s background

  • Attorneysomm on Instagram (27k followers) and YouTube (7,000+ subscribers)
  • Dallas based collector, lawyer, WSET Diploma
  • Cellar is ~2,000 bottles

Dallas Wine Clubs

  • Like a country club for wine lovers
  • Each club has ~100-125 members
  • Annual dues (~$1,500-2,500/year) and must meet a minimum wine spend through the club’s retail
  • Includes a wine locker (48 bottles), hosts winemaker and distributor tastings, sells wines through distributors and brokers wine collections
  • Driven by TX wine laws - restaurants w/ full bars are not allowed to do corkage
  • Graileys - more focused on celebrities and athletes now
  • Roots and Water - John is a member, currently 2 locations
  • 55 Seventy - opened 1-2 years ago

Collector demographics are becoming more female over time from heavily male

Dry January is relevant, but interest in wine is increasing

Regional buying focus

  • Top 4 regions - Bordeaux, Champagne, Napa, Burgundy
  • In John’s collection - he buys the most Champagne, but California is #1 in the cellar (due to large prior buying), with Bordeaux and Rhone next
  • Spain and Italy are relevant but smaller
  • Pichon Lalande is popular in Dallas - more expensive in Dallas than in other markets

Introductions to new wineries

  • Primarily through club distributor tastings & winemaker visits
  • Visits to wine regions (collectors go ~2-3x/year)
  • Social media

Wine pricing

  • Increases have made people more selective w/ purchasing; some have paused and drinking down cellar, waiting for pricing to come down
  • Some prices are double what they were before, especially Burgundy
  • Auction house reached out soliciting wine to sell, claiming the market is at all-time highs
  • Price increases in bad vintages (e.g., 2017 & 2020 Napa) are negative buying signals

Wine buying

  • From club - ~33%, mostly at distributor tastings
  • Online sources - ~33%, for older bottles, back vintages (e.g., Benchmark wine); collectors drinking mostly ‘90s Bordeaux and earlier
  • Winery direct - ~33%, for domestic wines, mostly mailing list/allocation systems, don’t like clubs b/c no control over what they receive; John was in ~15-16 mailing lists, now ~4-5); people culling their lists
  • “Cellar Defenders” - wines to drink that protect wines in the cellar; e.g., Willamette Valley, Rioja (Lopez de Heredia), Châteauneuf du Pape (Pegau)
  • Harder to get older wines than before (e.g., Champagne, Napa)

Social media

  • Instagram - spends less time engaging and more preparing content; posts more high-end wines
  • YouTube - active wine community, tends to be more value-focused, took a long time to reach critical mass (1st 3 months - 100 subscribers; +6 months to 1,000; 15 more months to 7,000); people want to know what wines to buy (e.g., Top 10 wines under $50)
  • Influencers now need to be more proactive in finding opportunities vs. being actively approached during the pandemic
Get access to library episodes

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Next Episode

undefined - The Rise & Fall of Bordeaux w/ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

The Rise & Fall of Bordeaux w/ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Deputy Editor of The Wine Advocate, William Kelley, who recently took over reviewing Bordeaux, as well as Burgundy and Champagne, amongst others, and former guest on E62 (Evolution of the Wine Critic) and E68 (Burgundy), takes a deep dive into the current state of Bordeaux in this two-part episode. First, William tackles the history of Bordeaux and how it achieved greatness as one of the top wine regions globally to its recent decline relative to Burgundy.


Detailed Show Notes:

Bordeaux was William’s 1st love of wine, part of its charm being its everywhere and always accessible relative to Burgundy’s scarcity

The Rise of Bordeaux

  • France’s most successful “commercial” wine - Bordeaux is a trading port city on the Atlantic, commerce is key to its identity
  • Wine was mostly an export product vs Burgundy was drank mostly by nobility, was also harder to travel
  • Robert Parker was a big supporter of Bordeaux vs. Burgundy, which was less of a focus

Bordeaux’s downfall

  • Lost commercial influence over the past 20 years
  • Conversation of wine has been around “terroir” and the Burgundian model
  • Aggressive pricing (particularly of 2010 en primeur campaign) also drove away many traditional customers - many wines still not worth what they were sold for en primeur from the 2009 and 2010 vintage campaigns
  • Worries that 2022 may have a similar fate

Bordeaux strategies

  • Some are trying to replicate Bordeaux scarcity (produce less Grand Vin, more 2nd / 3rd wines) - the region/producer may be too big for this strategy to work
  • Trying to copy other successful wine region styles (e.g., Napa, Super Tuscans; Int’l Sauvignon Blancs for whites)
  • William believes the best path is to keep what’s unique about the region but improve quality to make wines more approachable (e.g., more precise block harvesting, canopy management, etc.)

There’s an overreliance on vintage for Bordeaux; many great wines are made in lesser vintages

Winemaking trends

  • Since the 1982 vintage, new prosperity led chateaux to invest in new wineries, the focus was in the cellar
  • Recently, the push has been for vineyard improvements, promoting soil health and rooting systems, canopy management, and rootstocks and clones, though these take generations to implement

Sales focus

  • Salespeople in Bordeaux are not winemakers vs. Burgundy, where they are vignerons
  • Critics often taste at negociants, not at wineries
  • William was one of the 1st critics to walk the 1st growth vineyards in decades

La Place de Bordeaux

  • Suitable for big chateaux w/ pre-existing reputations, not small ones
  • Petite chateaux - struggling and hard to survive

M&A - can increase top chateaux production, especially of 2nd wines, where they can often get 2-3x the price of former wines

Get access to library episodes

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

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