The Southern Fork

Dan Weidenbenner moved to Greenville, SC in 2007 via Furman University. While there, he fell in love with the region and decided to stay, and then with the help of more than 50 volunteers, launched Mill Village Farms in 2012. The farm is located in the Greater Sullivan Community of Greenville and includes 30 garden beds, a 60-foot greenhouse, a commercial kitchen, and a produce-processing facility, and since 2018 has distributed close to 81,000 boxes of produce and provided 400 individual training opportunities for the neighborhood youth. Dan serves as the executive director of Mill Village Farms and the parent organization, Mill Village Ministries, and he is also a resident of the Greater Sullivan community.

J. Drew Lanham is a 2022 MacArthur Fellowship Recipient, an Alumni Distinguished Professor of Wildlife Ecology and Master Teacher at Clemson University, an ornithologist, poet, and essayist, and he’s also a native of Edgefield, SC, where he grew up on lots of fresh veggies from the garden and the occasional Krispy Kreme doughnut from trips to Augusta. I first encountered him like many of you will today -- on a podcast, This is Love with Phoebe Judge to be exact -- and his joyful and accurate renditions of birdcalls sustained me through that dark spring of 2020 when the world was shut down and reeling. Since his work resonates with me so much, I invited him to chat about food, and when he accepted, he decided to read two never-before released poems on the subject. We dive deep into BBQ and SC Foodways here, as he invites us to consider the intersection of race, history, identity, and the very nature of language to name a thing, be it a pig or a person.

We delve into BBQ again this week, not into its past but its delicious future. Up and coming pitmaster Hector Garate of Palmira BBQ is definitely part of the cuisine’s next chapter. In Charleston, SC, he’s creating sustainable farm-to-table barbecue with old school wood fire techniques and Puerto Rican Influences. He’s in love with all parts of the cooking process, so much so that he often purchases whole animals to break down into the specific cuts he wishes to serve, and that meat he smokes in a custom cooker he built himself. Hector specializes in smoking beef cheeks, brisket, whole hog and house-made sausages, and partners with local farms for sourcing. As he builds momentum for his brick-and-mortar restaurant set to open this year, he is holding pop-ups and collaborations with other BBQ folks around the country and at home, and he routinely sells out. In short, he’s on fire for the medium, and that passion shows in every bite.

Zachary and Hannah Welton started their great adventure together working in Charleston, SC’s celebrated Husk kitchen before they decided to settle on another coast – the Yucatán. Their time spent living and working in southern Mexico – specifically Hartwood in Tulum – solidified their love for wood burning ovens, bright and bold flavors, and plenty of fresh produce. When they returned to the Lowcountry, they began wood-fired pizza pop-ups around Charleston and quickly garnered an intense cult following for their pizza and pastries made with locally-sourced, seasonal ingredients. They’ve kept the catering and pop-up side of the business but also recently opened Weltons Tiny Bakeshop on Upper King Street, where their ethos continues, focusing on seasonality and thoughtful sourcing to create naturally leavened, European-influenced pastries and breads. Charleston’s next culinary chapter is upon us, and Hannah and Zachary, two of this class establishing the city’s current culinary personality, are only just beginning to show us what they can do.

Parnass Savang is a first-generation Thai American who grew up in his parents’ Thai restaurant in the Atlanta suburb of Lawrenceville. A Culinary Institute of America graduate, he came back to Atlanta to cook in some of the best kitchens in the city, including Kimball House, Staplehouse, and the now shuttered Empire State South. When he and fellow chef Rod Lassiter teamed up with dreams of a Thai restaurant, they tested menu items, built capital and a following by becoming one of the most exciting pop-ups in the city. In 2018 when they were still operating as that pop-up, Parnass was nominated as a James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef, and Bon Appetit named Talat Market one of the best 50 eateries in America. The two launched a Kickstarter campaign, raised capital, and what resulted is the brick-and-mortar coming to life of a comfortable and vibrant neighborhood restaurant that melds Thai technique and local Georgia ingredients. Last year, the restaurant was awarded the Georgia Organics Farmer Champion, and Eater Atlanta named it one of the “22 Restaurants we keep returning to.” Talat Market is located in the Summerhill neighborhood of Atlanta, which is adjacent to Grant Park, a location I erroneously reference as their home neighborhood in this interview.