12: Christian Krogstad, Founder of Aviation Gin and Westward Whiskey, Designs Spirits That Stand the Test of Time

Explicit content warning

08/07/24 • 59 min

Brewer-turned-distiller Christian Krogstad launched House Spirits in the mid-‘00s with a focus on artisanal gin, but he had no idea the botanical spirit they pursued with passion would become one of the larger celebrity-owned-and-endorsed spirits in this recent wave of high-profile acquisitions.

Tinkering with two partners—one a prominent bartender, the other a fellow distiller—their goal was to create a pre-Prohibition-style gin perfect for classic cocktails. But no recipes existed for those earlier gins, so he set about reverse-engineering one from a recipe perspective. The result is now a modern classic and a favorite of bartenders everywhere—but in this episode, Krogstad takes us back to the roots of the creation process, tracks the Aviation’s evolution to the present day.

In this episode, Krogstad and host Mollly Troupe discuss:

building independent brands rather than a branded house, to address how many drinkers seek categories rather than brands
designing gin to work in a classic cocktail context and appeal to bartenders, with no historical recipes to reference
building botanical blends for nuance and character rather than intensity
finding a signature ingredient that brings the botanical blend together
articulating the power of flavor memories
changes in gin flavor after bottling
go-to-market strategy for a new gin brand, and the 2012 relaunch that changed its trajectory
creating bartender-friendly packaging
selling the Aviation Gin brand to Ryan Reynolds and an investment group
distilling aquavit, the caraway or dill-seed spirit

And more.

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In this episode, Krogstad and host Mollly Troupe discuss:

building independent brands rather than a branded house, to address how many drinkers seek categories rather than brands
designing gin to work in a classic cocktail context and appeal to bartenders, with no historical recipes to reference
building botanical blends for nuance and character rather than intensity
finding a signature ingredient that brings the botanical blend together
articulating the power of flavor memories
changes in gin flavor after bottling
go-to-market strategy for a new gin brand, and the 2012 relaunch that changed its trajectory
creating bartender-friendly packaging
selling the Aviation Gin brand to Ryan Reynolds and an investment group
distilling aquavit, the caraway or dill-seed spirit

And more.

Previous Episode

11: Ken Klehm of 450 North Spirits Loves the Creative Challenge of Distilling an Array of Spirits

The modes that distillers operate in can vary wildly based on the goals of the business and the avenues for sales. While at the helm of Ghost Coast in Savannah, Georgia, Ken Klehm did it all—a law change allowed the distillery to sell cocktails as long as all the spirits were produced in-house, so Klehm distilled a wide range of spirits and liqueurs to stock the entire bar. Now, at the helm of 450 North Spirits—a family-owned distillery, adjacent to the family’s brewery, situated on a corner of the family’s Indiana farmland—he’s tackling new problems and finding opportunities in ingredients like estate corn, while creating spirits that feel at home next to the sweet and tart fruit beers the brewery is known for.

In this episode, host Sydney Jones and Klehm discuss:

making fernet based on spearmint
testing ABV in liqueurs with significant sugar content
unlocking the mystery of great chartreuse
production logistics behind distilling a wide range of spirits
conceptualizing a farm-based brewstillery program
finding cohesion from disparate inputs
mash and fermentation parameters including slow cooling in closed fermenters
distilling agave nectar

And more.

Next Episode

13: Widow Jane Head Distiller and Blender Sienna Jevremov Directs the Delicate Dance of Urban Distilling and Blending

New York City’s Widow Jane Distillery may be one of the better known craft-spirits brands, with a relatively wide distribution footprint earned through the incredible reputation built by former distillers such as Lisa Wicker (hear her perspective on Episode 3). Now, under the guidance of head distiller and blender Sienna Jevremov, the distillery continues to grow despite the functional challenge of producing spirits in tight urban spaces, and the results of their work capture a certain artful tension and energy.

In this episode, Jevremov and host Sydney Jones explore the challenges Widow Jane faces and the creative solutions those necessitate. Along the way, they discuss:

The challenges of distilling in an urban environment where the distilling and blending process takes place across five different addresses
Predicting the future of white-dog whiskey flavors and testing predictions against aged batches
Finding harmony in distillate from different sites
Making bourbon with a hybrid of two heirloom corn varieties
Articulating the hand of the distiller in column distillation
Creative approaches to blending while identifying personalities within the blending team
Using woods such as applewood and amburana for aging while testing and predicting its effects over time

And more.