Lattice Training Podcast

In today's podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with athlete Will Bosi, delving into his recent trip to Arco, Italy. Where Will was attempting to secure the second ascent of Excalibur (5.15c/9b+), and looking ahead at his plans for 2024 and his upcoming trip to the USA.
Reflecting on his multiple trips to his project Excalibur, Will gives an overview of his projecting strategies and how he coped with the challenging weather conditions (which when climbing at this level takes a lot of mental control!). Tom also drew on questions fans have sent to us, asking about Will's experiences during his trip to the Czech Republic, where he successfully sent Nova (8C/V15) while attempting Terranova (8C+/V16). Plus delving into, his thoughts on Simon Lorenzi’s beta on Burden of Dreams (9A/V17) in Finland.
The podcast covers a range of topics, including:

• How to use replica training and optimise your climbing performance
• Navigating challenges and frustrations during a projecting trip when it feels the world is against you
• Defining success in the face of a non-sending trip
• Will Bosi's goals for his upcoming trip to the USA
• The importance of resting and effective skincare in climbing
• Simon Lorenzi’s insane beta on Burden of Dreams
• How a climber’s strengths influence their projecting strategies

And much more!
If you’re looking for more juicy insights on Will Bosi’s projecting strategies, or want to know what he is going to try next, head over to our podcast.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode, join host Tom Randall for an in-depth conversation with climbing legend James Pearson. James recently established ‘Bon Voyage’ (E12), a route he boldly suggests is the world's hardest trad climb, pushing the boundaries of difficulty and safety in the sport.

James Pearson is a household name in the climbing world, known for his ground-breaking first ascents like ‘The Walk of Life’ (E9), as well as ascents of some of the world's hardest sport climbs. Despite that, there has been controversy surrounding the grading in his earlier career.⁣

Although his earlier efforts faced some controversy, with a few of his climbs like The Groove being downgraded after establishment. This criticism, which even included accusations of overgrading for media attention, forced James to re-evaluate the entire grading system.

The experience turned out to be a turning point for James. He spent years rebuilding his confidence and credibility as a climber, making significant ascents in Europe. This included repeating the downgraded ‘The Walk of Life’ and tackling other difficult routes like ‘Tribe’ (E11) and ‘Lexicon’ (E11 7a).

So when James established 'Bon Voyage' in France and felt it was his hardest route yet, he initially hesitated to propose a grade. However, after witnessing other accomplished climbers struggle on the route, James decided to propose the world's first E12 once again, ten months after his initial ascent. This episode dives into James' experience with 'Bon Voyage' and the lessons learned from his past grading controversies, but also the validation James received when none other than Adam Ondra, successfully repeated the route and agreed with the E12 grade.

In this episode, James dives deep into:

Sharing ‘Bon Voyage’ with Adam Ondra

• What makes this route unlike anything else out there
• Adam Ondra’s approach to risk
• What beta Adam Ondra used for this epic route
• Who else is trying ‘Bon Voyage’
• The evolution of trad grades and why did James propose the controversial E12 grade for ‘Bon Voyage’

This episode is a must-listen for any climber interested in the cutting edge of trad climbing, the ever-evolving world of grading, and the unique perspectives of two climbing legends!

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Last year, we had a parenting-focused interview on the show with Caro Ciavaldini joining Mina (who's also recently a new mum!) for a discussion about climbing and training post pregnancy. We had some great feedback from you guys on the content, which also included a request to do a "dad" version of the interview....
So here it is folks. You asked and we will always try to deliver! Two Lattice dads - Tom Randall and coach Jon Procter sit down to chat about their own experiences since having children. Never ones to sugar coat, Tom and Jon share their ups and downs and some of the strategies they've used to maintain a path of progress and performance in climbing.
Key topics discussed:

• Tom and Jon's parental set up.
• The early days of changing lifestyle and how this affected training and performance.
• Methods for managing time and energy with less sleep or less "free" time in the week.
• Split sessions for training and climbing.
• Training Mesocycle lengths and format
• Home training set ups.
• Differences in endurance vs strength training as a parent.

You can find Mina and Caro's interview here if you're interested in that one too!

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Part 2 of the "Endurance Mistakes" of Climbing Training!
Endurance training is a foundational element of performance preparation or training for almost every athlete, no matter what their discipline. Boulderers, sport climbers and trad climbers should all be completing phases of endurance training during their year. What is also common across these disciplines, is a consistent set of mistakes that climbers typically make when completing this type of training.
In part two of this podcast, Tom Randall talks about the "Style" aspect of endurance work which encompasses both grip types and terrain angle. Both of these factors in your endurance training will affect the outcomes in technical, psychological and physical performance or adaptation.
Main grip types you want to consider:
Micro edges (less than 10mm)
Mid-sized edge (20-30mm)
Pinches
Slopers, big open holds
Pockets
Main terrain angles to train on:
Slab
Vertical
Steep up to 30 degrees
Steep 30-60 degrees
Roof
Technical outcomes:
1. Lack of skill or technique in using particular grip types. Finger, hand and wrist positioning as well as body position especially with things like slopers etc.
2. Lack of movement efficiency appropriate to the terrain angle. Movement on a slab is not the same as a 45 degree wall!
3. Low skill set in hold-specific or angle-specific rests.
4. Under developed technique in pacing for particular terrain angles.
Psychological outcomes:
1. Not enough familiarity or exposure to specific holds or angles. Impacts confidence, anxiety levels and state management.
2. Likelihood of lower onsight ability that fitness or technical ability should dictate.
3. Problem solving skills for terrain type underdeveloped. Will affect onsight and redpoint grade.
Physical:
1. Terrain-specific mobility/flexibility and also finger-hand-wrist-forearm ROM appropriate to grip type.
2. Focusing volume of training on the wrong terrain type will under-develop the muscle groups specific (and limiting) to the terrain you do want to perform on.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today's episode, host and coach, Maddy Cope, is joined by Dr. Sarah Duvall, a women's health and fitness specialist, to explore the intersection of climbing, fitness, and motherhood. Maddy brings her experience from coaching elite climbers post-partum such as Emily Harrington, and her passion for climbing to the conversation as she delves into Sarah's expertise. With over 15 years in the climbing industry and a background in coaching and climbing performance, Maddy is excited to learn from Sarah's wealth of experience.
Together, they uncover practical strategies and exercises to enhance your climbing journey, whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting out. From managing fear and anxiety to finding balance and prioritisation, this episode is packed with valuable insights:
Topics include:
Insights into Sarah's personal climbing journey postpartum and her impressive climbing achievements.
The importance of breathing techniques and core strength for climbers, particularly during pregnancy and postpartum.
Practical exercises and tips for improving breathing patterns and core engagement.
Strategies for managing fear and anxiety when returning to climbing postpartum.
Finding balance and prioritisation in different seasons of life.
Don't miss out on this empowering conversation with Dr. Sarah Duvall. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more.
Some links from Sarah to help support the podcast:
Heel hooking hamstring strain strengthening prevention protocol: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqvTjDcGZXQ&t=9s
Advanced hip rotational exercises: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoC5YhmojGQ&t=37s
Drawing in vs abdominal brace: https://youtu.be/WA-mFvykZ9k?si=hQVcYeG1TDquRDpK
Rib cage mobility breathing exercise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1AkIPbnbfg
Pushing vs pulling and core pressure: https://www.instagram.com/tv/B4ezNr6HXGu/?igsh=dHB1dHllbTB6dDBm

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.