The People's Art - Material and The Modern Masters

09/07/23 • 43 min

Have you ever wanted a Picasso on your walls – or maybe a Joan Miro, a Chagall, or perhaps a Raoul Dufy? For a time in the mid-50s in America you could buy work by these artists for just a few dollars: that's a few dollars a yard, because these were fabrics and not original paintings – but they were beautifully designed, sophisticated, and elegant.

As peace crept back after World War Two there was an intense hunger for new design. After five long years of uniforms, and sacrifice, people wanted something interesting to wear, and colourful fabrics to decorate their homes with. In America manufacturers were quick to turn their machines from military production to domestic demand.

This episode of Haptic & Hue is about how fresh and fashionable textiles were amongst the first items people were able to enjoy in the post-war period. It focuses on a short period when manufacturers turned to established artists, like Picasso, Raoul Dufy, Marc Chagall and Miro, to help them create brilliant new textiles. It looks in particular at Daniel B Fuller’s attempt to build what he called “A Museum Without Walls’ with his Modern Masters series of textiles in the 1950s.

It is also about what grew out of that, and tells the story of a young artist, unknown at the time, who worked for these same textile producers as a pattern designer, using his experience and skills to change the face of twentieth century art.

For more information, a full transcript, and further links, https://hapticandhue.com/tales-of-textiles-series-5/

For more information, a full transcript, and further links, https://hapticandhue.com/tales-of-textiles-series-5/

Previous Episode

The Tangled Tale of Tartan

Who doesn’t love a good tartan? It is everywhere from high fashion catwalks to shooting parties on winter hillsides, from military uniforms on parade to much-loved old sofas. It is at home in the humblest of cottages and the most splendid of royal palaces. It has a kaleidoscope of different uses and meanings. It is one of the most recognised patterns on earth, a global textile, visible almost everywhere.

But tartan is much more than a pattern, it is a fabric of contradiction and surprise. It holds many meanings, often simultaneously. It can represent the establishment and the power of the state, and at the same time signify rebellion and treachery. It can be an emblem of enslavement and oppression, or it can represent comfort, family, and home. Its meanings are as diverse as its many patterns.

In this episode of Haptic & Hue’s Tales of Textiles, we look at where tartan comes from and how it acquired its many meanings and controversies, and why some people love it and others hate it. Tartan is a textile of duality, able to hold many ideas within its simple grid design. It has a history that has spread out across the world and taken a sense of what it means to be Scottish with it.

But there is more than history to tartan: we also hear from a bespoke kilt-maker, who designs and registers her own tartans. She creates modern tartans able to embrace new definitions of identity and community and expand far beyond the Highland glens they first sprung from.

All of this has been put into context by the first exhibition in living memory about Tartan in Scotland itself, which opened in April 2023 at the Victoria and Albert Museum in Dundee, which we went to see as part of making this episode.

For more information, a full transcript, and further links, https://hapticandhue.com/tales-of-textiles-series-5/

Next Episode

Cabbage and Mungo: How Recycling Returned To Savile Row

There is a quiet revolution happening on Savile Row in London, home to some of the world’s finest men’s outfitters, as the makers of bespoke suits embrace textile recycling in a unique new scheme. A number of houses on The Row have been collecting woollen offcuts as they cut and tailor handmade men’s clothing – just as they did in times gone by– and sending them off to be recycled into new yarn, which is then woven into fresh cloth. The radical difference is that this time the recycled cloth is being bought back by these high-end workshops to be tailored and sold to the Row’s own bespoke customers.

Savile Row, in the heart of London, has been at the centre of high-quality men’s tailoring for 200 years. It has supplied handmade suits, from the finest woven cloth, to film stars and royalty, to statesmen and sportsmen. It has a reputation for quality and excellence second to none. Now it is embracing recycling, and it seems, its top-end clients are happy to pay for it.

It’s incredibly rare to find a recycling loop like this one – especially in textiles - where the waste is turned into quality new material to be used by the same workshops that created it in the first place. This episode tells the story of how this is happening and follows the journey that turns tiny bits of fabric that would previously have been binned, into new bespoke garments, ones that come with great credentials and an interesting story behind them.

Along the way Haptic & Hue gets a privileged glimpse into the world of Savile Row tailoring – the training and the standards that need to be maintained from start to finish to produce a garment that may well last a century or more.

If you would like to see a full script of this episode, see photos or discover links to further information about the topics discussed you can find all this information at www.hapticandhue.com/listen. You can follow Haptic & Hue on www.instagram.com/hapticandhue/