Good Beer Hunting

HBCUs—or Historically Black Colleges and Universities—have long been important institutions in the Black community. The first HBCUs were established before the Civil War to provide higher education opportunities to Black high school graduates, and since then have continued to grow. Today, there are 101 HBCUs in the nation.

Over the years, HBCUs have graduated many prominent leaders, including Dr. Martin Luther King Jr; US Supreme Court Justice Thurgood Marshall; Oprah Winfrey; Toni Morrison; and the first female, first Black, and first Asian-American vice president, Kamala Harris. HBCUs have given birth to many leaders across society, including the beer industry.

This is the landscape in which Atinuke Akintola Diver’s recent piece is set. “‘A Black Woman Made This Beer’ — How Historically Black Colleges and Universities Shaped a Generation of Black Women Brewers” was published on May 11, 2022 as part of our Next Germination series (made in partnership with Guinness). Tinu’s story draws a connection between the many Black women brewers working today and the HBCUs they attended, and explores the role of these institutions as essential incubators of Black brewing talent. She noticed this connection after researching her feature-length documentary “This Belongs to Us.” (If you want to learn more about her documentary, I recommend listening to the podcast she recorded with her main subject, Briana Brake, and host Bryan Roth.)

In this episode, we talk about the importance of giving Black women their flowers, our love of storytelling, why a complete beer history includes the contributions of Black people, and where Tinu’s beer journey has taken her so far.

Football and beer tend to go together without much thought. But in places like Pope County, Arkansas, alcohol is noticeably absent from tailgate coolers, plastic Solo cups, and concession stands. That’s because the area, which is home to Arkansas Tech University, is also one of the state’s 29 dry counties, where access to alcohol is restricted thanks to political influence, conservative mindsets, and tradition left from the time of Prohibition.

In his first piece for Good Beer Hunting titled “No Blitz — How Arkansas Tech University Fans Tailgate in a Dry County,” freelance writer Brian Sorenson portrays a small, but proud slice of the American South, where sports like football dominate much of the culture. That culture, he says, lags behind the more liberal coastal areas of the United States, but that doesn’t mean it’s less worthy of attention. In our conversation, he describes his hope for readers and listeners to set aside their notions of what they think Arkansas is like, and to instead experience it through fresh eyes and open minds.

You’ll hear about his background in beer, football, writing, and the state of Arkansas, where he grew up used to rowdy sports fans fueled by alcohol. For this story, he was fascinated by the idea of separating the two, and shares some of the surprises he came across while writing the piece. It’s an insider’s look at seemingly contradictory ideologies, and it’s likely you’ll walk away with a new framework from which to view a different, but beautiful, way of life.

Welcome to this special episode of Sightlines, part of Good Beer Hunting’s continued coverage of the COVID-19 pandemic. I’m Bryan Roth.

Parts of the country are in some kind of encouraged self-isolation—if not lockdown in some locations—and in many states, bars, restaurants, and breweries have been told by governments to shutter on-site sales and restrict business to takeout or delivery services. Bottom lines are suffering as cash flow dwindles with people sheltering in homes, spending money on extra groceries, and small businesses await help from elected officials to see them through this time.

Not all breweries are hurting equally, however, as packaged beer flies off the shelves in stores as drinkers stock up, and kegs sit untapped. All this happened in a matter of days.

So when we hear this is not going to be a short blip, the attention of business owners and economists has shifted to what all this means with short-term gains versus long-term solutions. And in this episode, we’re going to school to learn more about what this all means, and how and why breweries are eyeing all the scenarios in between.

It’s not as simple as supply and demand.

Our three guests include John Dantzler, CEO and co-founder of New York City's Torch & Crown Brewing Company—his background is in finance having worked for Deutsche Bank, Goldman Sachs, and Barclays Investment Bank before entering the beer world.

And also Scott Metzger, general manager of Massachusetts' Wormtown Brewery, and co-founder of San Antonio's Freetail Brewing. Scott's background is in economics, having worked as an economist at Valero Energy Corporation and the University of Texas-San Antonio.

But we start with another economist, Michael Uhrich, former chief economist of the Beer Institute, and current founder and chief economist of Seventh point Analytic, a data-driven consulting company.

This is Sightlines. Listen in.

People in the beer industry often tout the aspiration of using the drink as a way to “build community.” What they typically mean is that interacting over a beer is meant to be some kind of equalizer, allowing humans to connect in a better way. In this episode we meet someone who has taken this idea to heart, acting as one of the most prominent community builders in the Arizona beer scene for several years.

Ayla Kapahi is the director of brewing operations for Tuscon’s Borderlands Brewing, but is so much more. She’s started professional development organizations, including co-founding the Southern Arizona chapter of the Pink Boots Society, which focuses on developing talent and skills among women and non-binary individuals. Ayla also helped launch Las Hermanas, an annual collaboration beer made with female brewers from both sides of the U.S./Mexico border. On the brewing side of things, she’s focused on using ingredients and flavor experiences unique to the Southwest as a way to give Borderlands beer a truer sense of home.

All these effomjmjrts are part of an ongoing desire to connect people. And as you’ll hear from Ayla, while she’s had a hard time defining what success means for her career so far, it’s these examples that help her stop and realize the impact she’s able to have, relationships she’s created, and how much more she can do in the future. We all work to find the “why” in our lives—what drives us and inspires us—and you’re about to learn how finding a career in beer helped Ayla find hers, and is encouraging others to do the same.

Around the world, the craft beer community disagrees on a lot of things, but one big schism is over what beer actually is. Is it a rigid adherence to historical methods and styles? Or could it also be over-the-top, avant-garde experiments that are as far from tradition as it’s possible to be while still remaining liquid? At Omnipollo Brewing, it turns out beer can be both.

In his latest piece titled “Lead Us Not Into Temptation — Omnipollo Brewing in Stockholm, Sweden,” writer and filmmaker Jonny Garrett goes headfirst into the wacky world of Omnipollo, a brewery best known for its outrageous Pastry Stouts and iconic aesthetic. But being known for one thing hasn’t kept them from branching out—even if they’re not quite sure where they’re going. Today, Jonny reveals what it was like to have his own preconceptions about what beer is challenged by Omnipollo, and how brewing Pastry Stouts emulates the artistry of baking actual pastries. He describes Omnipollo as “tearing up the rulebook” of beer, with outlandish—and yes, delicious—results.

We also talk about how filming, photographing, and even writing about the art of others is an art form in itself, rife with challenges that can often yield something entirely new. Finally, we’ll touch on that Yellow Belly controversy: what it was like to hear about it firsthand from Omnipollo’s founder and brewer, their intent, the impact, and how context changes over time and in different places. Beer is always more than just beer, so let’s talk about it.