FASHION | AFRICA | NOW

A career in fashion fuelled by passion, YEGA talks to Beatrace and gives the exposé on her spontaneous journey to becoming an established fashion illustrator. Luxury fashion, editorial and bespoke art, the unique combination of design, fine art and commerciality is what makes fashion illustration niche in the art form world for many Africans. This is why YEGA has found much of her success in the Middle East and Europe. Her illustrations have covered the walls in the Dubai Mall, they have been displayed in Harrods, graced the cover of Vogue Arabia in 2017 and featured in British Vogue in 2020. The traditional career ideals that many with Nigerian backgrounds face, led to a career start in law before her trajectory change to fashion illustration. “Talent is only helped when there is opportunity” - poignant words recognising the challenges in finance and representation. *Breaking ground in uncharted territory as a black female fashion illustrator, YEGA has recently founded the platform, Fashion Illustrator Africa.*

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Chebet Mutai gives an exposé from a global perspective into the fashion and textile industry all the way from Nairobi, Kenya. Her break into the fashion scene has been solution-orientated. Chebet founded the luxury lifestyle brand, Wazawazi that specialises in leather accessories, reflecting beauty and the progressive nature of Kenya, and by extension, Africa. Providing training, up-skilling, and generating economic value to the local community is at the helm of her brand. With a background in development and having worked at the World Bank, the discussion of the West promoting ‘ethical fashion’ prompts exposure to what the normality of fashion was like before this. Governance on what is deemed ethical can’t simply be applied to African fashion brands and companies when the nature and lifestyle of creativity in Africa is not exploitive. The Eurocentric assumption that “the politics of leather in Europe is the same as the politics of leather here”, when hide is a by-product and creates a whole new industry [leather production]. The dilemma of development and foreign aid to reduce poverty while the second hand clothing trade is directly detrimental to the local and Made-In-Africa textile and clothing industry is troubling to Chebet, who is determined to generate wealth and leverage her opportunities and connections for Kenya.

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Out of the Pearl of Africa is an erupting fashion scene. A Ugandan special with guests, Tazibone Solomon in Kampala and Ssonko Brian in Jinja, hosted by Beatrace Angut Oola out in the Diaspora in Germany, also originally from Uganda. Solomon brings a wealth of experience in Ugandan celebrity glamour, couture, media and entertainment. While Ssonko empowers local communities, artisanal production, textile innovation and advocates for sustainability. The multifaceted nature of fashion and its impact is revealed in the recounts of these two successful creatives, whose paths hadn’t yet crossed in Uganda’s burgeoning fashion scene. These two undeniably have different styles and experiences, but agree on the need for national infrastructure to support the ecosystem of fashion and emerging designers - a change in narrative! “If we all come together as designers and see how we can re-embark on this and create a general market for fashion” (Ssonko).

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Fashion Icon April Walker, from Brooklyn, New York, is considered as one of the architects and trailblazers in streetwear. The release of ‘The Remix: Hip Hop X Fashion’ in 2019 on Netflix, put a spotlight on Walker Wear as one of the brands pioneering with the glitterati of Hip Hop from the eighties and nineties. New York was a diverse melting pot of hustlers, the famous, athletes and even correctional officers. On the flip side April reveals the underbelly of the misogynistic and oppressive music and fashion industries, being black and being subjected to mass-misappropriation, yet also being a woman - the first to launch a streetwear brand in that era. She dressed major league artists such as 2Pac, Biggie, Aaliyah, Jay-Z, Method Man, and many other legendary artists, who undeniably shaped black culture globally up to this day. She paints a charming yet gritty scene of New York, leaving you in awe of the tenacity of talented musicians, rappers, fashion designers and stylists who were driven by heart and creativity in a sleepless city about to explode.

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Enjoy the flow that Senegalese-born New York-based international known photographer, Delphine Diallo, releases as she liberally shares her journey of enlightenment; working as a talented graphic designer in the Parisian creative scene yet not able to get past the glass ceiling in the corporate art world. A climactic epiphany for change and a divinely orchestrated connection with the legendary Peter Beard saw her to collaborate on the Pirelli calendar shoot in Botswana. This turning point led to an awakening that saw her begin her own vision quest. Delphine describes herself as predominantly a student before a photographer, exploring realms of spirituality, science, anthropology and martial arts and shifting through the third, fourth, fifth and sixth dimensions, creating her own realities. Proud of her African origin and drawing from the power of her heritage, we hear how she engages with the energies of empowering black females and aims to accelerate levels of consciousness through her work. Known for portraiture and her focus on the black female body, Delphine is passionate about the reconstruction of the African woman and capturing the truth that is covered by the patriarchal white male gaze smokescreen that dominates the global visual language.

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