
A Living Wage for All
01/10/22 • 34 min
How can we get fair pay in workers’ pockets, and replace poverty wages with a real living wage? What new tools can our campaigns use?
In this episode:
- Reflections on how low wages help trap workers as much as bonded labour (Tola Mouen, CENTRAL, Cambodia)
- A research project starts gathering wage slip data across several countries, in a step to hold brands accountable for the pay their workers receive (Anne Bienias, CCCIO; Martua Raja Siregar, Garteks, Indonesia)
- The EU Directive on Minimum Wages falls well short of what’s needed, but still provides campaign and negotiation opportunities (Štefica, Garment Worker; Mario Iveković, Novi Sindikat; Nikola Ptić, Regional Industrial Trade Union, Croatia)
- Activists in European production countries learn from the experience in Asia, as they define what a living wage should be across borders (Bojana Tamindzija, CCC Serbia, Artemisa Ljarja, CCC Germany)
- Thoughts on how a living wage is essential to tackling globalisation (Ashim Roy, Mill Mazdoor Panchayat & AFWA, India)
Please tell us what inspired you about this show, and share your feedback, comments and questions, by emailing: [email protected]
If you want to know more about the Europe Floor Wage, including its methodology, you can find that here, and in even more detail here.
Speakers:
- Anne Bienias, Clean Clothes Campaign International Office, Amsterdam
- Martua Raja Siregar, Garteks Trade Union, Indonesia
- Štefica, Garment Worker, Croatia
- Mario Iveković, President, Novi Sindikat Trade Union, Croatia
- Nikola Ptić, Regional Industrial Trade Union, Croatia
- Bojana Tamindzija, Clean Clothes Campaign, Serbia
- Artemisa Ljarlja, Clean Clothes Campaign, Urgent Appeals Coordinator, Germany
- Ashim Roy, Asia Floor Wage Alliance International Secretariat, India
Host: Febriana Firdaus (febrianafirdaus.com)
Field Reporters: Petra Ivsic and Aca Vragolovic
Sound Engineering Support: Steve Adam (www.spectrosonics.com.au)
Producer: Matthew Abud
Clean Clothes Podcast Team: Anne Dekker, Johnson Ching-Yin Yeung, Liz Parker, Tanne de Goei
Full Transcript
TOLA:
Even the law, even the convention of ILO, mention that people working 8 hours per day and they should, they should be entitled to the decent living standard with human dignity. We talk with the workers, no single worker work, in our experience work only 8 hour per day and then enjoy with the decent living standard. Visibly we see that they have to force themselves to work overtime. Even you are not well enough, you are sick. And then if you just complain, you just make the complaint, they may frame up you with any criminal cases in the courts. So this is happening. So wage for me, as I said, it’s a key issue that put the people into the modern-day slavery. Forced labour. They don’t lock you by the key but they lock you by the system.
HOST:
That’s Tola Moeun, founder of the worker rights NGO CENTRAL in Cambodia.
Today we’re talking about workers’ pay.
How to use data to make the reality of poverty wages transparent.
And ways to campaign for a living wage.
TOLA:
The supplier always say we cannot pay higher living wage or minimum wage because the brand just pay them low price, but we don’t know how much the brand paid to the supplier because the business agreement between the brand and the supplier is quite confidential, so it is not transparent enough and then the brand does not disclose, even some brand do not disclose their supply list so we don’t know, and then the brand make an excuse saying ok they do not have much leverage to pressure their supplier because they have a small percentage of order either from the country or either from the individual factory.
The business agreement between the brand and the supplier, should be transparent. We know that some information they should hide, but I think the export country should also consider about the ethical information act, so the brand will not be free in terms of providing a fake information to the consumers or to its own government in terms of the situations of the workers where they’re producing the clothes. I know that in Norway for example they had introduced already the ethical information act, which hold their business or private sector be accountable in providing the accurate or real information to consumers, transparency in terms of throughout the supply chains.
HOST:
Welcome to the show. I’m Febriana Firdaus.
Making supply chains more tran...
How can we get fair pay in workers’ pockets, and replace poverty wages with a real living wage? What new tools can our campaigns use?
In this episode:
- Reflections on how low wages help trap workers as much as bonded labour (Tola Mouen, CENTRAL, Cambodia)
- A research project starts gathering wage slip data across several countries, in a step to hold brands accountable for the pay their workers receive (Anne Bienias, CCCIO; Martua Raja Siregar, Garteks, Indonesia)
- The EU Directive on Minimum Wages falls well short of what’s needed, but still provides campaign and negotiation opportunities (Štefica, Garment Worker; Mario Iveković, Novi Sindikat; Nikola Ptić, Regional Industrial Trade Union, Croatia)
- Activists in European production countries learn from the experience in Asia, as they define what a living wage should be across borders (Bojana Tamindzija, CCC Serbia, Artemisa Ljarja, CCC Germany)
- Thoughts on how a living wage is essential to tackling globalisation (Ashim Roy, Mill Mazdoor Panchayat & AFWA, India)
Please tell us what inspired you about this show, and share your feedback, comments and questions, by emailing: [email protected]
If you want to know more about the Europe Floor Wage, including its methodology, you can find that here, and in even more detail here.
Speakers:
- Anne Bienias, Clean Clothes Campaign International Office, Amsterdam
- Martua Raja Siregar, Garteks Trade Union, Indonesia
- Štefica, Garment Worker, Croatia
- Mario Iveković, President, Novi Sindikat Trade Union, Croatia
- Nikola Ptić, Regional Industrial Trade Union, Croatia
- Bojana Tamindzija, Clean Clothes Campaign, Serbia
- Artemisa Ljarlja, Clean Clothes Campaign, Urgent Appeals Coordinator, Germany
- Ashim Roy, Asia Floor Wage Alliance International Secretariat, India
Host: Febriana Firdaus (febrianafirdaus.com)
Field Reporters: Petra Ivsic and Aca Vragolovic
Sound Engineering Support: Steve Adam (www.spectrosonics.com.au)
Producer: Matthew Abud
Clean Clothes Podcast Team: Anne Dekker, Johnson Ching-Yin Yeung, Liz Parker, Tanne de Goei
Full Transcript
TOLA:
Even the law, even the convention of ILO, mention that people working 8 hours per day and they should, they should be entitled to the decent living standard with human dignity. We talk with the workers, no single worker work, in our experience work only 8 hour per day and then enjoy with the decent living standard. Visibly we see that they have to force themselves to work overtime. Even you are not well enough, you are sick. And then if you just complain, you just make the complaint, they may frame up you with any criminal cases in the courts. So this is happening. So wage for me, as I said, it’s a key issue that put the people into the modern-day slavery. Forced labour. They don’t lock you by the key but they lock you by the system.
HOST:
That’s Tola Moeun, founder of the worker rights NGO CENTRAL in Cambodia.
Today we’re talking about workers’ pay.
How to use data to make the reality of poverty wages transparent.
And ways to campaign for a living wage.
TOLA:
The supplier always say we cannot pay higher living wage or minimum wage because the brand just pay them low price, but we don’t know how much the brand paid to the supplier because the business agreement between the brand and the supplier is quite confidential, so it is not transparent enough and then the brand does not disclose, even some brand do not disclose their supply list so we don’t know, and then the brand make an excuse saying ok they do not have much leverage to pressure their supplier because they have a small percentage of order either from the country or either from the individual factory.
The business agreement between the brand and the supplier, should be transparent. We know that some information they should hide, but I think the export country should also consider about the ethical information act, so the brand will not be free in terms of providing a fake information to the consumers or to its own government in terms of the situations of the workers where they’re producing the clothes. I know that in Norway for example they had introduced already the ethical information act, which hold their business or private sector be accountable in providing the accurate or real information to consumers, transparency in terms of throughout the supply chains.
HOST:
Welcome to the show. I’m Febriana Firdaus.
Making supply chains more tran...
Previous Episode

Formalise It! Rights for All Workers
Formalise It! Rights for All Workers
How can we expand rights to all garment workers, no matter where they work – in factories or their own homes, or as refugees or migrants far from their country of origin?
In this episode:
- How workers from Myanmar fought for the pay they were owed, from a factory in Mae Sot, Thailand (Brahm Press, MAP Foundation)
- Some of the challenges faced by migrant workers in Thailand, and what support is needed (Reiko Harima, Mekong Migration Network)
- The story of Hussain, a refugee garment worker in Turkey
- How home-based workers – mostly working in the garment sector – have got organised over several decades, and some of their wins (Janhavi Deva, HomeNet International; Zehra Khan, Home Based Women Workers Federation; Poonsap Tulaphan, Foundation for Labour and Employment Promotion)
- Building collaboration between home-based worker and other worker rights supporters (Marlese von Broembsen, WIEGO)
Please tell us what inspired you about this show, and share your feedback, comments and questions, by emailing: [email protected]
Speakers:
- Brahm Press, MAP Foundation, Thailand
- Reiko Harima, Mekong Migration Network, Japan
- Hussain, Turkey
- Mariam Danishjo, Turkey
- Janhavi Deva, HomeNet International, India
- Zehra Khan, Home Based Women Workers Federation, Pakisan
- Poonsap Tulaphan, Foundation for Labour and Employment Promotion
- Marlese von Broembsen, Women in Informal Employment Globalising and Organising
Host: Febriana Firdaus (febrianafirdaus.com)
Field Reporters: Petra Ivsic and Aca Vragolovic
Sound Engineering Support: Steve Adam (www.spectrosonics.com.au)
Producer: Matthew Abud
Clean Clothes Podcast Team: Anne Dekker, Johnson Ching-Yin Yeung, Liz Parker, Tanne de Goei
Full Transcript
HOST:
Welcome to the show, in our second instalment of the Clean Clothes Podcast.
I’m Febriana Firdaus.
Today we’re talking about rights for all workers – meaning migrant workers. Refugee workers. Home-based workers.
Workers who might not have all the right documents, or who might be hidden from view.
Sometimes governments and employers, don’t see them as workers at all.
But they still demand their rights.
Mae Sot is in Thailand near the Myanmar border.
Refugees and migrant workers from Myanmar, have lived there for decades.
Now it has hundreds of garment factories that depend on migrant workers.
They’re often underpaid to an extreme degree.
The Kanlayanee factory there made clothes for famous brands: Starbucks, Disney, NBC Universal, and Tesco.
In 2019 the workers demanded their proper pay.
Brahm Press takes up the story.
And just a note: Kanlayanee is the name of the factory, and the name of the factory owner as well.
BRAHM:
My name’s Brahm Press, the Director of MAP Foundation. MAP Foundation started in 1996, and one of the things we do is we have a process of developing peer leaders, and other migrant worker leaders, identify people who are potential leaders, give them training, and eventually even have passed some through paralegal training. So these workers are able to organise other workers, so that they can collectively bargain with employers for improved working conditions.
In 2019, we invited a reporter from Reuters to Mae Sot to look at the issue of underpayment of wages to migrant workers in factories, and found workers from the Kanlayanee factory. Everyone was being underpaid and there were massive labour rights violations going on. And this developed into a story mainly because these factories were producing for American brands.
Soon after that, the factory closed once Starbucks withdrew its order. So out of the 50 workers around half decided they wanted to take their case for redress, they wanted to make claims for unpaid back wages, unpaid overtime including working on days off and holidays. This group as it turns out, had also passed through some paralegal trainings that MAP had provided so they were very active and very aware of their rights.
Kanlayanee wanted to negotiate with the workers, and so she started negotiations at around half a million Baht, and there were a couple of rounds of negotiation but it was unsatisfactory. So that was around the time that we decided that maybe we should look at the brands. MAP, CCC and WRC, Worker Rights Consortium, worked together along with our community partner CBO, known as Arakan Workers Organisation.
The factory owner actually put up pictures of all the workers who were part of the claims, and said do not hire these people, basically put out a blacklist and everywhere they w...
Next Episode

Cracking Corporate Impunity
In this episode, our contributors reflect on laws and regulations for holding brands and retailers accountable for violations of worker rights in the factories that supply them, including:
- Nayla Ajaltouni from Collectif Ethique sur L'Etiquette in France tells how campaigners succeeded in getting the first law protecting human rights in supply chains passed in France – and how this law might set a European precedent for stronger worker rights protection.
- Nasir Mansoor from NTUF in Pakistan reflects on the experience of using legal mechanisms to hold KiK accountable for the Ali Enterprises fire.
- Muriel Treibich from the CCC International Office introduces human rights due diligence and presents opportunities including the European Supply Chain.
- Scott Nova from WRC in the USA highlights the closing of a loophole means the section of the US Tariff Act that prohibits companies importing goods made with forced labour could be enforced.
Please tell us what inspired you about this show, and share your feedback, comments and questions, by emailing: [email protected]
Speakers:
Nayla Ajaltouni, Coordinator, Collectif Ethique sur L’Etiquette, France
Nasir Mansoor, General Secretary, NTUF (National Trade Union Federation), Pakistan
Muriel Treibich, Lobby and Advocacy Coordinator, Clean Clothes Campaign International Office, Netherlands
Scott Nova, Executive Director, Worker Rights Consortium, USA
- Host: Febriana Firdaus (febrianafirdaus.com)
- Sound Engineering Support: Steve Adam (www.spectrosonics.com.au)
- Court of the Future performers: Free Theatre (www.freetheatre.com.au)
- Production: Matthew Abud with support from Anne Dekker
- Podcast Team: Johnson Ching-Yin Yeung, Liz Parker, Tanne de Goei
Full Transcript
JUDGE:
Order! Order! I mean it – I will have order in this court!
Now then. To the defendant. Mr. Ralph Hermes Vuitton
You may deliver your statement.
RHV:
Thank you, Your Honour. May I say with great humility, I’m humbled by the privilege to address this court. Very humbled. Humblingly so.
Because as everyone knows, we at Ralph Vuitton are a humble, ethical, caring, socially responsible, innovative brand ...and we pay record dividends!
The simple fact is – we didn’t know! And our promise is – we will do better!
We can’t know everything our suppliers do. It’s unrealistic.
We have thousands of them! We change them all the time! Some employees even work from home. Are we supposed to visit them too?
I mean, what would happen to my exclusive trench coat in those neighbourhoods? It would be ruined.
JUDGE:
Order! Come on now, let’s have a little order here.
Right. Now Mr. Vuitton. Please keep to the point.
RHV:
Yes your Honour. To put it simply.
Did we make the building a fire trap with no escape? No, we didn’t.
Did we ban the workers from organising together or cut their pay? No, it wasn’t us.
Can you blame me that women are constantly harassed in the workplace? That’s outrageous!
Let me finish with this point. Your Honour, could I say how stylish you would look in a bold red Faux Leather Coat. For you, it would be an affordable 175 Euros.
But if we had to pay for all the things they propose? Why, it could go up to 176! We’d be bankrupt!
Thank you, Your Honour.
JUDGE:
And why are you giving me your business card, Mr Vuitton?
RHV:
Just if you are interested in that Faux Leather Coat.
JUDGE:
This is not a sales pitch, Mr. Ralph Hermes Vuitton. We’re in a court of law. Do you understand?
HOST:
Could that be the court-room of the future?
Where brands must prove that they take care of human rights, through their whole supply chain?
I’m Febriana Firdaus.
Welcome to episode three of the Clean Clothes Podcast.
Today we talk human rights due diligence, and making laws to keep brands honest.
Human rights abuse includes stolen wages, sexual harassment, and union busting.
It has also cost many workers their lives.
This is Nasir Mansoor, General Secretary of the National Trade Union Federation or NTUF in Pakistan.
NASIR:
There was a tragedy in September...
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