BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing
Baffle Days, Tom O'Halloran, Amanda Watts
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Climber's Dirty Tricks? Yay or Nay
BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing
02/17/21 • 78 min
I'm almost certain many of you have done one or all of these things. A generation ago, employing some of these tactics may have resulted in being chased out of the crag. Perhaps there are still a few strong holds which keep the torch burning in a quest for pure ascents. The question is, do these tactics sit within the lines of fair play or have we pushed the boat out too far? Are those who shun these ideas just the beard stroking class of yesteryear, too lost in tearing people down to actually evolve with the times. Or is there legitimacy to their cries.
Helping the Baffle Days team to unpack our chosen ethical quagmires is Lee Cujes and Helen Day.
Check the Baffle Days website for training books from Climb Strong and Power company climbing, as well as Baffle apparel. https://www.baffledays.com.au/shop
Check out more Baffle Days episodes https://www.baffledays.com.au
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Tom O'Halloran Australian Olympian - Sport Climbing
BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing
01/15/21 • 107 min
On 19-20 December 2020 at Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym Villawood, the Oceania Climbing Championships were held, giving one last chance for a ticket to the Tokyo Olympic Games for one athlete per gender from the region. Tom O'Halloran qualified for the male category and talks to us about his journey.
Tom talks about his early climbing journey, (unknowingly) meeting Adam Ondra for the first time, competitions and transitioning from outdoor to indoor climbing. We also get into the decision making process to go for the Olympic spot, headspace in the lead up and during the competition. Tom went through a very dark mental headspace prior to the competition which nearly ended with him pulling out. We talk about what got him through it and how it turned around for competition day. Plus, what it will take for Australia to get onto the podium on the world stage.
Oceana MacKenzie qualified for Australia in the female category.
Tom is currently fundraising funds to help pay for the next 7 months. All donations are tax deductible https://asf.org.au/athletes/tom-ohalloran-tokyo-2021-olympics/
You can follow Tom's Olympic journey through Instagram @tom_ohalloran and YouTube.
Check out Baffle Days on instagram and a find more content on our website.
Music: Somerville and Wilson - Red Wasps
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Duncan Brown - Athlete and Adventure by Choice
BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing
10/28/20 • 72 min
Duncan Brown has been a climber for decades now. He has travelled all over the world in this time, including a stint in China as part of the big wave of development 10 years ago. He was apart of the team being flown across the country being paid to bolt the countless limestone caves, granite faces and sandstone walls. What a dream!
Duncan is also the man behind Athlete by Choice, his climbing and mountain sport coaching business based out of Canberra. He's coached everyone from weekend warriors, psyched week night gym climbers to the Australian Sport Climbing team. He'll be the climbing coach of the Australian Olympic team when that happens in 2021. Just recently he's acquired his own gym space in Canberra to set up a dedicated facility to really help develop his clients. Be on the look out for Mountain Strong in Canberra in early 2021!
Athlete by Choice:
Mountain Strong:
As always you can check out Baffle Days for more podcasts, articles and news.
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The future of Australian climbing
BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing
08/10/20 • 91 min
It’s easy to believe the popular overseas destinations are the bee’s knees. They’re in the movies, on the posters and clogging up your instagram feed. But what about back home, in the land girt by sea? Turns out it’s pretty darn good!
We talk the progression of our sport in the last decade and predictions of things to come. A few years ago we’d have never thought that 33 was going to be a trade route for the masses, now it is. So what’s going to be the 34 trade route?
Bolting projects and climbing hard first ascents is also on the agenda. What are we looking for and where are the next hard ones hiding? New crag discoveries or fresh eyes on old cliffs.
The lads also get into the indoor scene and how the new school bouldering gyms have changed the direction of climbing. Are we going to see Australians consistently on the World Cup podiums? What’s it going to take to get us there and what can we learn from those who came before us?
It’s all this and more. We love Australia!
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From climber to climbing mum
BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing
07/19/20 • 131 min
Mum climbing life with Amanda Watts, Andrea Hah, Helen Day and Carlie LeBreton. This group of crusher climbing mums have over 80 years of combined climbing experience, bouldering, sport and trad climbing and competing at the highest levels. For each of them, finding a balance between climbing and mum life was important for their mental health and quality of life. Climbing is what makes life feel normal.
They talk about everything from climbing pregnant, to travelling and climbing with kids. Their pre pregnancy expectations, compared with the reality of mum climbing life. Injuries and barriers to climbing and training, their motivations and drive and balancing climbing dreams and goals as a parent.
There are some tips and hints to successfully getting to the crag, through a training session and 24 hours of flying with a baby. They hope that sharing their stories and experiences will help climbing parents find it a little less daunting to get back to the cliff with their little monkeys.
Follow:
Amanda on Instagram: @a.mandawatts
Helen on Instagram: @helendayknight
Andrea on Instagram: @andreahah
Carlie on Instagram: @carlieclimbs
Links
Thrive Nutrition & Dietetics - https://nutritioncollective.com.au/thrive/
Baffle Days - https://www.baffledays.com.au
For 15% off Awesome Woodys goodies
Use discount code BAFFLEDAYS at checkout
Madeleine Crane - Climbing Psychology
BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing
05/28/20 • 76 min
Madeleine Crane started Climbing Psychology out of a passion. She is a professional psychologist, specialised in sport psychology and has experienced the pinnacle of competition climbing, having competed for Austria at World Cups. She wants to help you find the tools to give yourself every opportunity to express yourself fully on the wall.
In our chat we get into the dynamics of men and women in the climbing scene and why it can be hard for some people to step up and climb to their full potential. We discuss positive and negative self-talk and how we can reframe when things don’t go to plan. We also jump into visualisation, the positive outcomes of a bit of friendly competition and dealing with dips in motivation.
If you don’t already, give Madeleine a follow on instagram @climbingpsychology. She has some really good discussions there, digging into some topics we don’t often see raised. You can also head to her website www.climbingpsychology.comto read her articles and book an appointment.
www.baffledays.com.au
Steve Bechtel
BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing
04/29/20 • 101 min
If you don’t know who Steve Bechtel is already, he’s one of the big names in global climbing training. He studied Exercise Science at University and in 2002 opened Elemental Performance and Fitness in Lander, Wyoming. We love Steve’s no nonsense approach to climbing training. He looks from above with an insightful eye and makes the complicated, simple. Sitting down and chatting with him is always a real treat and today was no different. We covered a lot of ground and came out with some really fantastic information.
Steve begins philosophically by exploring why it is we climb and how that has set us up to deal with the current COVID situation. As climbers we push our comfort zones regularly and make ourselves, to steal Steve’s phrase, ‘anti-fragile.’ We are ready to adapt and keep on truckin’. Making the most out of the current situation we find ourselves in around the world is what will get us through this time; it’s not a wrecking ball, it’s an opportunity.
We don’t dive too deep into the current events around the world, rather help provide food for thought as to what you may do. Developing a Plan A and Plan B is one of Steve’s tips. What’s the plan if we continue like this for several months and what will you do if we are back to the new normal in just a couple of months? Programming yourself something sustainable and simple will be the keys here and Steve explains the intensity progression you could try.
Overtraining is a definite tight rope many people like to walk. Perhaps one that will see even more traffic now everyone is fingerboard 12 times a week. Steve lays out a super simple way to check if you’re over training and we have a link below to his recovery checklist. Stick to this and you may just stay injury free and come out stronger for the future.
Amanda and Steve also touch on the importance of a long-term view to your health and training, which has probably never been more apparent then now. The benefits of a carrot this morning will not be obvious this afternoon, nor will the strength session. But do each consistently for a long time and the outcome will be life changing. Our health and fitness are centre stage for many right now, so what better time to make a positive change for the future you.
There’s plenty more we get into like developing work capacity, working weaknesses, habits and self-assessment of your training program.
Follow:
Steve on Instagram: @stevebechtel
Climb Strong on Instagram: @climb.strong
Links
Steve’s recovery checklist - https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/recovery-points-challenging-youth-athletes-to-recover-well/
Climb Strong free training plans - https://www.climbstrong.com/training-plans/
The Talent Code - http://danielcoyle.com/the-talent-code/
Baffle Days - https://www.baffledays.com.au
Minimal equipment training. COVID-19
BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing
04/06/20 • 108 min
In this episode Amanda Watts and Tom O’Halloran sit down with Lee Cossey, one of the best climbers Australia has ever seen and one of the best coaching minds in the business. We talk about how you can get the most out of your training while climbing gyms are shut and our access to the outdoors is limited. Finger boarding, strength, mindset and technique improvement are all covered here, with practical tips on what you can do from home.
Lee Cossey is a physiotherapist and runs, along with his wife Andrea Hah, Move Clinic, a Physio and Exercise Physiology practice in Katoomba, Blue Mountains. His clinical study as a physio teamed with elite level climbing gives him a unique understanding of how to get the most out of every climber. If you want to get in contact with Lee or any of the other climbing physios at Move Clinic, you can reach out via their website here. https://moveclinic.com.au
Amanda Watts has been an elite level Australian climber for the past two decades. She is also a sport dietitian and has worked with recreational to elite athletes all over the world. Having lived this life, she knows how to implement important and lasting changes for your health and performance. If you want to get your nutrition and health in tiptop shape, contact Amanda here. https://nutritioncollective.com.au/thrive/
Fingerboard
Four finger grip on an edge
Three finger grip on an edge or pocket
A heavy hang (can be one arm on jug or big edge if you can)
Protocols Lee recommends:
If you’re new to finger boarding, even as an experienced climber, Lee suggests starting on a simple repeater workout. This usually looks like 7 seconds hanging, 3 seconds resting, repeated 6 times. This will last 1 minute. You can repeat this two or three times for each grip, keeping in mind your conditioning to this type of exercise. Rest for 2-3 minutes between sets. One set on each grip may be all your body needs to make gains. Take it slow. Training is a months and years progression, not days and weeks.
You can also try 3 reps of 10 second hangs, separated by 1 minute between reps. Three hangs is one set, take 2-3 minutes between sets and grips.
If you are new to this type of training, take a bigger edge than you think, even a pull up bar or jug is great to begin with. Get used to hanging and going through the process of the exercise. If you have trouble completing a set of hangs, either use a bigger hold or take a small amount of weight off by putting your feet on the ground.
TRX/Floor exercises
TRX row - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rT7FwxpYSZs
TRX or floor push ups - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlUqeytSoxE
TRX IYTs – The video shows this exercise being done in a prone position (facing down) this is an advanced variation. Begin by facing the anchor point as you would in the row exercise. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzrurtNn9FQ
Pull up bars
Anything here is going to be good. Lee’s recommendation is progress up to doing 10 chin-ups. Once you can do this add 5% body weight to a harness or backpack.
General overall rules
- Don’t do the same session more than twice per week.
- Don’t work max strength in the same body part more than twice in a week.
- Be aware of what you are conditioned to. Reflect on what you have done in the last month or so. Think of the number of moves you did in that time. It may look something like two trips to the bouldering gym where you did 50 warm up moves, 50 warm down moves and 100 hard moves as the main set. Giving you 200 hard moves, 200 easy moves in the week. Plus you went to the cliff twice a week and climbed 10 easy pitches of 50 moves each. That's another 1000 easy moves. Don’t suddenly start finger boarding heavy 4 days week to try and replicate this. You’ll end up injured!
Minimal equipment tips
- Drink bottles filled with water are great weights for the fingerboard
- Fill your backpack with the bottles and you have a weight vest. Kids or partners also make good weight vests ;).
- The underside of a table can supplement as a chin up bar for your inverted rows
Video psyche
Mellow climbing – the new school strong folk have made a youtube channel of some of the hardest boulders in the world https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jRwTUqG15l-BcqQHbVFtA
Reel Rock – Classic climbing movies and clips from the last 20 years
Episode 3 - Lee Cossey - Light Walling
BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing
02/04/19 • 67 min
Lee Cossey is a proper legend of the Australian climbing scene. He has climbed and first ascented some of the hardest routes in the country for the past two decades as well as bouldered hard double digits and done some bloody good ascents on the big walls in Australia, Yosemite and Patagonia.
Lee and I talk about his time big walling, which in contrast to the time he has spent sport climbing and bouldering is almost nothing. But in no time he has compiled a world class list of ascents, including an ascent of Riders on the Storm, in Patagonia, Argentina, a 1200m 36 pitch 27 A2. Which he did with Jake Bresnehan in 2009.
We chat about the begin of his wall climbing life and the progression he has had as a climber and person in this time. He tells stories of his trips including a moment which he had never experienced before or since. He also gives some advice to those that are psyched to get into the wall climbing, but it probably translates pretty well to any type of progression in climbing.
In other episodes I will sit down and talk with Lee the sport climber, bolter, training fanatic and physio but for now, its Lee the big waller who prefers to take the light, fast and no fuss approach.
You can follow Lee on instagram @leecossey
Lee is sponsored by Black Diamond, La Sportiva, The North Face
Music credit - Somerville and Wilson, Red Wasps
Keep updated on everything that’s happening with Baffle Days on Instagram - @baffledays
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FAQ
How many episodes does BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing have?
BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing currently has 34 episodes available.
What topics does BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing cover?
The podcast is about Leisure, Climbing, Australia, Podcast, Podcasts, Sports and Wilderness.
What is the most popular episode on BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing?
The episode title 'Dave Jones' is the most popular.
What is the average episode length on BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing?
The average episode length on BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing is 79 minutes.
How often are episodes of BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing released?
Episodes of BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing are typically released every 31 days, 17 hours.
When was the first episode of BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing?
The first episode of BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing was released on Dec 22, 2018.
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